A FAIRY TALE IN AMALFI

Usually tours to the Amalfi Coast of Italy mean lying on the sunny beach, admire the enchanting scenery around, and enjoy Italian cuisine with the limoncello liqueur. The Italian resort covers the towns of Amalfi (capital), Maiori, Positano, Ravello, Minori, Sorrento, Salerno and a little less known Praiana, Cetara, Atrani. Thanks to its beauty, the coast is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea is an ideal place for a lazy holiday. In the summer season, there are almost no significant storms and large waves, and steep cliffs protect the coastal towns from strong winds. Therefore, it is said that the mild climate of the Amalfi Coast is just right for a resort holiday.

The most comfortable time of year is from April till September. Knowledgable people advise to come here at the beginning or end of the season, when there are fewer tourists and accommodation prices are lower. At the peak of the tourist season (July, August), the air temperature reaches an average of 35, and water 25-26 degrees Celsius. These months are known for most holidays, festivals, night discos and various parties. November is the rainiest month. Apparently, that is why everyone is walking in the streets with an umbrella, and there are umbrella bins in front of the entrance to all facilities. In winter, the temperature varies on average between 8-14 degrees Celsius. Spring and autumn, the guides say, are ideal for those who plan hiking tours along the famous and picturesque trails of the coast.

All roads lead to Amalfi

Before travelling, one needs to decide on the purpose of visiting the Amalfi Coast and determine the number of days and the location of the hotel. So, if you are going to relax and sunbathe on the beaches in summer, it is best to choose hotels in Positano and Amalfi. These are the most attractive locations of the coast, and there are many beaches, but accordingly everything is more expensive. If the goal is to make a sightseeing tour of the region, then more favourable locations to stay may be Salerno or Naples. But you still need to get to the coast, and there are several options here.

Since 2023, the Hungarian low-cost carrier Wizzair has been operating direct flights from Baku to Rome. Despite the late time of arrival (around 1 am), this can be used to your advantage. For example, you can wait for four hours at the Fiumicino Airport, then go to the central railway station of Rome (Roma Termini), and from there take high-speed trains (€25-40) to Naples or Salerno. In summer, buses leave from Rome's alternative railway station (Roma Tiburtina) in the morning for Sorrento, Positano and Amalfi. Tickets cost €25-35 for the five-hour journey (277 kilometres) from Rome to Amalfi.

If you are staying in Naples, you can take a train or bus (Sita Bus) from the central station to Sorrento for €4-5 and then to any city on the coast. If you live in Salerno, again the Sita Bus will take you to the coast for about €3-4. Travelling by bus or car along the Amalfi coast is both exhilarating and terrifying - the narrow road winds over 300 metres above sea level and passes over a precipice. Large buses travel at low speeds and with extreme caution. But the view of unique landscapes, the palette of colours of the sea and greenery leave inexpressible impressions! That is why some tourists hire cars and go for impressions on their own.

You can also take a ferry from Salerno to Amalfi or Positano. It will cost €10-15, but you will have a stunning boat trip along the beauty of the coast. It's worth it, believe me!

In general, apart from online websites, official ticket offices of transport companies and special machines, it is common to buy train and bus tickets in Italy at Tabacchi tobacco kiosks. They are everywhere, more often near transport hubs and railway stations. But be aware that in some towns, like Amalfi, they may be off on Sundays. In small resort towns, there may be no ticket offices or specialised ticket machines at all. When applying to Italian online bus ticketing platforms, you can find your country (including Azerbaijan) unlisted. Strangely enough, on some sites you cannot register (which is mandatory) your mobile phone if you live outside the European Union. Therefore, we recommend you to buy tickets for both trains and buses in both directions in advance.

Biting hotels

Before coming to the Gulf of Salerno where the Amalfi Coast is located, you will certainly think about where to stay. Popular travel platforms recommend staying in Sorrento for those who want to combine entertainment and the beach with an interesting sightseeing programme. If you want scenic views from postcards, then you should go to Amalfi or Positano. Ravello is a popular place often celebrated by writers, composers and artists. Those who like port romance can recommend Salerno. Family tourists and fans of quietness should stay in Maiori or Minori.

All experts advise booking hotels as far in advance as possible. Although almost all hotel rooms are sold out before the start of the season, the prices are quite expensive. The most expensive hotels are located in Positano and Amalfi, where a couple will pay €300-600 per day to stay in a three-star hotel in the season. Five stars will cost you around €1700 per day. Some tourists find accommodation from local residents who put up the Affitto (for rent) signs in front of their houses. Usually, the minimum rental period in such accommodations is at least a week.

Amalfi is cheaper in comparison with Positano. In other seaside towns, but not in downtown, you can find accommodation for €90-100 per day. But still it will be cheaper to book hotels or apartments in Salerno, where the transport infrastructure is well developed. And remember that in autumn and spring prices for hotels and apartments can be 3-4 times cheaper than in summer. In autumn, you can find apartments for €50-60 for two people in Salerno even with a symbolic breakfast.

Shopping with limoncello.

As for shopping on the Amalfi Coast, it is safe to say that it is not very well developed. There are no large shopping malls or outlet stores in Amalfi. More popular shopping facilities here are the network of world brands, boutiques and designer salons. At the same time, prices are biting - the effect of resort habits. After all, visitors are mostly the rich, hence the high prices. For example, in Positano pay attention to linen products - they are very popular here and of high quality. Prices for a woman's jumper or a man's shirt start from €200-250, while a dress or a jacket will cost you around €300-350.

For shopping, head to nearby Naples, as well as Rome and Milan. These coastal towns are full of souvenir shops and grocery shops selling fresh Italian cheese, aromatic wines and herbs, liqueurs, olives, famous lemons, seafood and delicacies. Lovers of sweets can enjoy a large selection of honey, jams and confitures made on local farms.

Speaking of liqueurs, the most popular local drink is limoncello. It is sold everywhere and served in all bars and restaurants, and is probably the most popular drink and souvenir from the region. A 250 gram bottle of limoncello sells for €15-20 in many shops. The coast is rich in citrus fruits, in particular the local large variety of lemons where they are used to make various interesting sweets, which would also make a great option for a tasty gift. In addition, you can purchase excellent products made of ceramics and porcelain as souvenirs. Compared to their Turkish counterparts, the prices are at least 2-3 times higher.

In search of sirens

In general, tours to the Amalfi Coast have been advertised in Azerbaijan for the last year or two. Yet, this place has been quite popular with both the European elite and curious tourists from all over the world for many decades. Amalfi or Positano will hardly say anything to many residents of the CIS countries. Although there are quite a few sights on the Amalfi coast featured in documentary films, videoclips and commercials. So don't be surprised if, when you visit a place or historical monument for the first time, you experience a dejá vù. But nearby Capri, Naples, Pompeii and Sicily will soon put everything in order...

According to a legend, Hercules, the pagan god of strength, fell in love with a nymph named Amalfi. Their love was short-lived, and when it ended, Hercules wished to bury her in the most beautiful place on earth, hence the name of the city.

Since Amalfi is a seaside and beach resort, many people will find the appropriate entertainment, water sports, horse riding, sailing, etc. here. In addition to sunbathing, tourists will fully enjoy the beauty of medieval towns with narrow streets. In Amalfi, you should first of all visit the municipal cathedral, the Church of St Andrew, which is located in the central Duomo Square. In the 13th century, the relics of St Andrew were brought to the cathedral from Constantinople. They are still kept here to this day. Another must is to visit the Chiostro del Paradiso monastery (Abode of Paradise). It is an unusual building in the Arabian style constructed in 1266-1268. Its most characteristic feature is the peristyle with a vault supported by 120 thin double columns and a garden full of palm trees and flowers. The city and paper museums are also worth a visit. For a quick tour of these sights, one or at most two full days may actually be enough for you.

After walking around Amalfi, you can walk to the neighbouring tourist destination of Atrani. Just cross the rock-cut steps and you will see a small harbour town that still retains the appearance of an ancient settlement. There are only 855 inhabitants living on an area of 0.12 square kilometres. There are cosy cafes and restaurants, ancient chapels and churches, narrow streets with arches and steps. A must-see is the Cathedral Church of St Mary Magdalene, which offers an unforgettable view of the Bay of Salerno.

Yet the most interesting point of the coast is Positano, an ancient village whose age is difficult to determine even by Italians themselves. It is usually fallen in love at first sight, and is admired right from the windows of luxury cars or from the steps of tourist buses arriving from the Amalfi side. As the legend goes, the god of seas, Poseidon, founded this settlement as a sign of his love for the nymph Pazitea. Positano is also mentioned in Homer's famous Odyssey as a living place for sweet-voiced sirens who destroyed hundreds of ships.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta (Church of Santa Maria Assunta) is the main attraction of the island. It was built to honour the arrival of the Madonna Nera icon in the 12th century. It is still preserved on the main altar. Unlike Amalfi, Positano has slightly more popular sites and one day is not enough for even a cursory tour. The church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, the medieval towers of Sponda and Trasita, and the Museum of Archaeology are all must-sees. Positano has well-preserved luxurious villas-palaces of 17-19th centuries, including Palazzo Murat, Marzoli and Santa Croce. Italians have set up fashionable hotels in them, where it is difficult to book a room for next summer even today, , despite the expensive prices even for the simplest rooms – €1500 per night. Make sure to visit the Montepertuso quarter, where you can find the best examples of local architecture. Internet sites strongly recommend walking along the Path of the Gods, which leads from Positano to the small village of Praiano. Here you can walk along a cliff more than 300 metres high and admire the stunning scenery, views of the island of Capri and the Amalfi Coast.

The must-see place on the coast is the small mountain town of Ravello. It is a perfect place for couples and romantic getaways. In addition to its stunning scenery, the town is known for its luxurious villas of 13-14th centuries. Although Ravello is 7 kilometres from Amalfi, the journey to the mountainous area by public transport can take up to an hour. The buses, especially at weekends, rarely run here. A 10-15 minutes taxi ride along a narrow path can cost you about €100. Therefore, it is important to carefully choose the day and route of your visit to Ravello.

Other coastal attractions include small towns such as Cetara, Majori and Minori, with magnificent scenery and the best beaches. As they say in the brochures, here you can relax on the beach for days on end, drink wine and limoncello, eat pasta and seafood in cosy restaurants with 100 years of history and enjoy the picturesque views. For dessert, you should try homemade ice cream, cakes with lemon cream and figs stuffed with nuts and chocolate. Welcome to the Amalfi Coast!