THE EIGHTH WONDER

The Kingdom of Jordan, a renowned Arab nation in the Middle East, has recently begun to flourish as a tourist destination. It has long captivated visitors with its ancient monuments, nature reserves, and seaside resorts. Many are drawn here for therapeutic treatments on the Dead Sea, beach vacations, and diving in the Red Sea, as well as pilgrimages to sacred sites. Yet, the primary magnet for global tourists is the stone-carved city of Petra, often hailed as the eighth wonder of the world, with roots stretching back to 300 BC.

While most visitors enter Jordan through Amman, the capital, we'll explore an alternative route that may be more appealing and intriguing for many.

The Kingdom's Premier Resort

Despite its modest size, Jordan boasts diverse climates across its regions. Aqaba, the kingdom's principal beach resort on the Red Sea, enjoys the most agreeable climate. For nine months of the year—spring, winter, and autumn—the weather is nearly perfect. Aqaba caters to dynamic tourists who favour extreme sports and lively gatherings over tranquil retreats.

Thanks to its distinctive climate and position along the bay's coast, Aqaba invites year-round swimming. The climate mirrors that of neighbouring Egypt, such as in Sharm el-Sheikh. The peak tourist seasons in Aqaba span May-June and September-December. January may bring cooler temperatures and fewer visitors, but from February, the influx of guests surges once more. In the scorching months of July-August, temperatures can soar to 40-45 degrees Celsius, occasionally higher, which can be less than ideal for tourists.

Promotional materials for Aqaba boast that a boat tour offers views of four nations simultaneously: Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Egypt, and Israel. Indeed, Aqaba's geographical position is advantageous. It's a mere 25-minute drive to the Israeli border, just 25 kilometres from the Saudi Arabian border, and a 45-minute ferry ride to Egypt's Taba. The Jordanian capital lies approximately 330 kilometres away.

Aqaba, a quaint seaside resort, attracts throngs of tourists to its sandy shores and the balmy Gulf of Aqaba waters throughout the year. Accommodations range from basic, budget-friendly options (around ₼30) to upscale hotels boasting private grounds and beaches (₼250-400). Concurrently, Aqaba functions as a modern city and the nation's sole maritime port. The industrial activities, including the port operations, are structured so they don't interfere with the city's resort life, noticeable to tourists only as cargo ships anchored off the coast.

Visa

Commonly, a visa is recognised as authorization for a foreign national to enter another country. Essentially, it details the grounds for entry, the number of permitted entries, and the duration of stay. Most countries, Jordan included, require tourists to obtain a visa.

However, Jordan offers a unique exception. Entering the Kingdom through the southern ASEZA Free Economic Zone (FEZ) negates the need for a visa for up to 30 days. This zone encompasses Aqaba's international airport and port, the Jordan-Saudi Arabia border, and the Eilat-Aqaba checkpoint. Visa-free entry does come with stipulations, such as a minimum three-night hotel booking; otherwise, visa (around ₼60) and FEZ fees (about ₼28) apply. Exiting through the ASEZA zone is also necessary to avoid additional fees. Travellers should always carry printed copies of their return tickets and hotel vouchers, as these may be requested by border officials and during travel within Jordan.

Moreover, visas can be acquired at the border upon arrival, as noted by Russian-speaking travel sites. This requires a prearranged tourist voucher, including tickets and hotel reservations.

A third option for tourists is the Jordan Pass, a cost-effective document that serves as both a visa and a pass to over 40 of Jordan's top attractions. It is available in three versions, differing only in the number of days allotted for visiting the Petra Reserve. The Jordan Wanderer (₼99) allows for a one-day visit, the Jordan Explorer (₼106) for two days, and the Jordan Expert (₼113) for three days. Given that entry to the reserve alone is 50 Jordanian dinars (around ₼70), the Jordan Pass offers significant savings. It's an ideal choice for those planning a 1-2 week exploration of Jordan.

The Jordan Pass can be obtained online in a matter of minutes, with confirmation sent via email. It must be printed, presented at the border, activated at the first attraction, and used within 12 days. Purchasing the Jordan Pass waives visa fees, provided a minimum three-night hotel stay in Jordan is booked.

Be aware that the Jordanian Embassy in Baku may strongly suggest purchasing an online visa (₼125). They may not inform you about the visa-free entry through Aqaba or the Jordan Pass. Travel agencies also tend to recommend visa purchases to avoid border complications, as the kingdom's entry policies are not always clearly communicated to embassies and tourists. Nonetheless, during our group's border crossing in Aqaba, the official confirmed that visa-free entry is indeed available for this area!

Conflict and Tourists

As a resort town, Aqaba's economy is closely tied to tourism, with many locals deriving their livelihood from this sector. The town welcomes visitors from across the globe, including Spain, Italy, France, Germany, and Eastern Europe, as well as active vacationers from Russia who often prefer adventure over beach relaxation. Azerbaijani tourists, however, tend to favour Amman over Aqaba.

The conflict, exacerbated by the Hamas attack on Israel in October 2023, has significantly impacted tourist arrivals in Jordan, particularly in Aqaba. Given its proximity to Israel, the town has seen a marked decline in visitors since the autumn, which has, in turn, affected the earnings of the local community. The downturn has left hotels, entertainment venues, restaurants, and shops struggling, with tourism workers facing challenging times.

Tensions in the region are palpable in Eilat, nestled on the border with Israel. Although Arabs and Bedouins coexist harmoniously with Israelis, the escalating conflict has significantly reduced the influx of Israeli tourists. In the past, many would cross into Aqaba for Jordanian excursions. Consequently, the border's supporting infrastructure—restaurants, hotels, travel agencies, shops, and even a specially constructed hospital—thrived with activity. Despite ongoing conflicts, the border remains operational, yet the frequency of crossings has plummeted, with only the number of Palestinian refugees on the rise.

The regional unrest has also impacted local law enforcement operations, adding complexity and, at times, causing unease among tourists. On trips between cities, police conduct thorough checks on vehicles and passengers. It's essential to carry all travel documents, including passports, hotel bookings, and relevant certificates. Inspection points dot the roads, scrutinizing the credentials of locals and tourists alike. Occasionally, you might be escorted to a roadside police station for a more detailed examination of your documents, questioning, and ID photocopying. Local drivers consider these checks routine and unrelated to the neighbouring conflict.

Checkpoints between cities are not just for security; they also monitor the transport of alcoholic beverages. For instance, a can of beer in Aqaba might cost 1.5 dinars, while in Amman, the price could escalate to 5 dinars. These measures prevent unauthorized alcohol distribution from Aqaba to the capital and beyond. Nonetheless, alcohol sales are widespread across Jordan, except during Ramadan.

A crucial tip for tourists visiting Jordan is to negotiate everything, particularly prices, upfront. Jordanians, especially Bedouins, have a penchant for gratuities and invariably anticipate them. Even with pre-agreed prices—bearing in mind that tourist services can be costly—a tip is still expected upon completion. Moreover, any slight alterations to schedules or programs may incur additional service charges. Hence, it's wise to hash out all details meticulously before committing to any service, taxis included.

In Aqaba, taxi drivers are ubiquitous, eagerly signalling to tourists with a honk, announcing the availability of a ride. Initially, such signals might startle you, but they soon become part of the local fabric.

Despite its merits, Aqaba's tourist infrastructure isn't as developed as one might expect—lacking the glamour of destinations like Antalya or Sharm-El-Sheikh, let alone the more illustrious European resorts. However, the city compensates with affordable fresh seafood, a plethora of cosy cafes serving traditional Jordanian fare, shops brimming with handmade crafts, and Arabic sweets. Not to mention the irresistible local cardamom coffee available at every corner.

The allure of renowned historical sites and natural wonders like the Wadi Rum desert, the Dead Sea, and the city of Petra more than makes up for any minor drawbacks. These treasures will be the highlight of the next instalment in our series on this tourist haven.

(To Be Continued)