MOROCCAN TEA CEREMONY

Capital Rabat. Dar Naji, a restaurant offering traditional Moroccan cuisine by the Atlantic Ocean. A four-hour time difference between Azerbaijan and Morocco. The sensation of making a leap in the reverse direction, akin to the film Back to the Future. Perhaps, this analogy fits the country as well as possible - it appears that you travel to Africa, but you arrive at the European East, with a remarkable synthesis of Berber melodies and dances, piquant tajine, sweetened mint tea, vibrant Moroccan culture. And the persistent question in your mind is: "Where, indeed, is the African warmth?".

Independent Berbers

The decor of Morocco's capital is imbued with history. The name of the city of Rabat translates from Arabic as "fortified monastery". Here, each landmark bears the imprint of the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Portuguese, Spanish, French, not to overlook the fact that the indigenous population of the country are Berbers. They instilled fear with their piratical raids for over three hundred years in the peoples of Europe, whose commercial interests reached the Mediterranean, dictating their terms to all who ventured there. Now the once "intimidating" Berbers (50 per cent of the country's populace) have transformed into accommodating Moroccans, ever ready to assist a tourist adrift in the digital age.

Rabat's populace numbers 2.5 million. The city has served as the capital for over a century. Since 1912, upon the recommendation of the inaugural head of the French administration in Morocco, Hubert Lyotet, the capital was relocated from Fez to Rabat. The nearly half-century under the French protectorate, as one of its African colonies, imparts to the "Arab Maghreb" its "Europeaness".

Nevertheless, the populace was discontent with foreign dominion, and Moroccans repeatedly engaged in armed resistance. The revolts of Berber tribes in northern Morocco in the 1920s - initially against the Spanish and subsequently against the French - were notably widespread and harshly quelled.

Yet, in the mid-50s of the 20th century, Moroccans ultimately secured their right to sovereignty. At that juncture, the leader of the national liberation movement was Sultan Mohammed bin Yusuf, who later ascended as Mohammed V. On 20 August 1953, the French government initially banished the unwelcome ruler with his kin to Corsica and then to Madagascar, affirming its readiness for any action to consolidate its authority. However, while in exile, the deposed Mohammed's popularity surged among Moroccans.

Consequently, as a result of the liberation movement in October 1955, France, averse to further conflict, conceded to acknowledge Mohammed bin Yusuf as Sultan of Morocco, and in November the newly reinstated ruler arrived in Rabat. On 18 November - the kingdom's principal bank holiday, Throne Day - the Sultan was enthroned and acknowledged as the sovereign of the Kingdom of Morocco. Mohammed bin Yusuf proclaimed the cessation of the French regime and the inception of democratic foundations under a monarchical system. In tribute to this day, Morocco instituted a holiday - Independence Day, which Moroccans observe with exceptional pride, honouring the historically pivotal ruler. Morocco formally attained independence on 2 March 1956.

See Rabat and Live

Rabat is a magnificent, expansive city situated at the confluence of the Bou Regreg River with shaded boulevards, verdant park oases, and gardens, quaint neighbourhoods, and opulent historical edifices. The stately Rabat befits the stature of the royal capital. The family of the current monarch of Morocco, Mohammed VI, predominantly resides here.

Enlightened Islam, European tidiness, seamless roads, efficient junctions, the absence of congestion, reasonably priced shopping, and the tranquil, measured pace of life in Rabat seem like a utopia for visitors. A day or two in Rabat, and you are captivated, yearning to return time and again. Indeed, the capital of Morocco exemplifies the harmonious fusion of two cultures - European pragmatism and Eastern spontaneity. It is an ideal city for family excursions: authentic, atmospheric, with amiable inhabitants, attractions within close proximity, all navigable within a day or two.

Arabic and Berber are the official tongues of Morocco. French is prevalent in governance and commerce. English is also esteemed. Hence, a traveller should not feel disoriented if the need arises to converse with the locals, perhaps to negotiate a discount on another Maghreb keepsake, and Google Translate remains available.

Beyond buses and taxis, the highlight of public transit in Rabat is the tramway, inaugurated in 2011 - a superb, effective, contemporary network. Two principal lines span 19 kilometres of the city with ease. The network also links Rabat with the city of Sale. The trams and stations boast an aesthetic design. The fare is 6 dirhams, with ticket dispensers at all stations. The trams operate punctually every 20 minutes, from 6 am to 10 pm daily. The tram system facilitates access to most areas of the capital, barring the airport. Overall, transportation is very economical, ensuring hassle-free travel.

Certainly, Rabat does not encapsulate the entire colourful tapestry of Morocco. Yet, spending a week there affords a tourist a cursory but definite impression of the life of the nation's populace, its customs, idiosyncrasies, somewhat akin to Azerbaijanis due to shared faith. Locals assert that owing to the ocean's proximity, Rabat's climate remains temperate and agreeable year-round.

The route to Morocco is not particularly favoured among Azerbaijanis - the absence of direct flights consequently elevates airfare costs. Nonetheless, the Azerbaijani Embassy in Morocco strives, firstly, to broaden Azerbaijanis' awareness of this enchanting locale and Moroccans' familiarity with our nation and culture, and secondly, to fortify bilateral connections between the two countries. The potential of these relations, as Azerbaijan's Ambassador to Morocco, Nazim Samedov, told R+ in his interview, is ever-growing.

"Diplomatic ties between Azerbaijan and Morocco date back to 1992, and our embassy was inaugurated in 2006. The groundwork for bilateral relations between the two nations was already laid. You have been Azerbaijan's ambassador to Morocco for more than a year now. Thus, the new appointment invariably serves as a catalyst for the subsequent phase. What specific measures have you undertaken to bolster Azerbaijani-Moroccan relations?"

"Thank you for your question. Firstly, I wish to express gratitude to your editorial team for the interest in our embassy's endeavours in Rabat. The Azerbaijani Embassy in Morocco also holds accreditation to the Islamic Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (ISESCO), Senegal, and Gambia. My tenure as Azerbaijan's Ambassador to Morocco spans 1 year and 7 months, throughout which my impressions of this country have been overwhelmingly positive. Morocco, fostering a congenial and collaborative stance towards Azerbaijan, has consistently supported our nation, and the sentiment is reciprocal. Constructive dialogue with Moroccan counterparts unfolds in alignment with the mutual interests of both countries.

"The evolution of Azerbaijani-Moroccan relations is charting a positive political course. The visit of national leader Heydar Aliyev to Casablanca in 1994 and his meeting with the former Moroccan Monarch Hassan II cemented these amicable and cooperative bonds.

"Although the trade turnover between the two countries is modest, there is mutual interest in economic cooperation, and the role of our embassy is to transform this interest into tangible work. Tourism, energy, renewable energy, water sector, mutual investments are topics of interest to both sides. There is an intergovernmental commission between the countries, the last meeting of which was held the previous year in Rabat. In February 2023, a delegation from the Azerbaijan Export and Investment Promotion Agency visited Morocco, and the First Azerbaijani-Moroccan Business Forum took place in November of the same year. According to the action plan to declare the city of Shusha as the cultural capital of the Islamic world for 2024, Days of Shusha City were held in Rabat. Additional events are also planned for this year.

"The previous year was replete with official visits, and several mutual visits are scheduled for the first half of the year 2024. In 2023, Azerbaijan's Foreign Minister Jeyhun Bayramov, Milli Majlis Speaker Sahiba Gafarova, Ombudsman Sabina Aliyeva, Culture Minister Adil Kerimli, Central Bank Chairman Taleh Kazimov, Milli Majlis Deputy Chairman Adil Aliyev, and 10 deputy heads of central government bodies visited Morocco. Chairman of the House of Representatives of the Moroccan Parliament Rashid Talbi el-Alami, Minister of Family Affairs Auatif Khayar, Labour Minister Younes Sekuri, and others visited Azerbaijan.

"In May, Vugar Aliyev, head of AzerTAG, Ismat Sattarov, head of the Audiovisual Council, and Ahmed Ismayilov, Executive Director of the Media Development Agency, visited Morocco. Chairman of the House of Counsellors of the Moroccan Parliament Naam Miyara and Minister of Culture Mehdi Bensaid were invited to Azerbaijan. We hope that these visits will contribute to the further deepening of bilateral cooperation."

"Still, why does Azerbaijan need Morocco and Morocco needs Azerbaijan?"

"The greater the number of friendly countries, the better for any state. Azerbaijan and Morocco are two amicable nations that share much in common. They have similar traditions and a shared religion. Both countries are situated at the crossroads of civilisations. Thus, there are numerous topics on which we can collaborate. Islamic solidarity and the issue of territorial integrity are fundamental to our cooperation. Azerbaijan can leverage Morocco's influence on the African continent, and Morocco can benefit from Azerbaijan's influence in the Caucasus and Central Asia. All this creates additional opportunities for the foreign policy and development of our countries."

"What is paramount: politics, economy, tourism, culture, education?"

"I believe that political cooperation, which has been the foundation of our relations for all these years, will continue to predominate in our bilateral ties. The cultural component is also very significant, as it enhances the political dialogue. In my view, tourism cooperation has immense prospects, as both countries are promising tourist destinations. The most challenging area is economic cooperation, considering the considerable distance between our countries, the language barrier, and the absence of a diaspora. We will focus on this and engage business structures."

"Speaking of tourism, let me ask you a question that fellow compatriots will find interesting before travelling to Morocco this season: what should be done to increase the number of tourists from Azerbaijan to Morocco and vice versa? Do Moroccans have any interest in Azerbaijan?"

"I think that the issue of tourism development between the two countries could become the main subject on the cooperation agenda. For instance, we have already signed an agreement on the abolition of visas for holders of ordinary civil passports. Currently, we are discussing the feasibility of establishing direct air connections. We anticipate that this year will mark a turning point in terms of tourism exchange between the countries.

"It is noteworthy that Morocco welcomed over 14.5 million tourists in 2023, and Azerbaijan is also actively cultivating inbound tourism. Tourists from both countries relish travelling and exploring new destinations, and are keen to spend money. Last year, 1740 tourists from Morocco visited Azerbaijan, marking an increase of 31% compared to the preceding year. This destination can be developed through the joint efforts of the public and private sectors.

"You mentioned the absence of an Azerbaijani diaspora in Morocco..."

"Indeed. The Azerbaijani community in Morocco is small and primarily comprises members of mixed families, compatriots employed at ISESCO and the embassy and their families, as well as individuals engaged in business. The total number of Azerbaijanis does not surpass 35. Novruz Bayram, 31 December - the Day of Solidarity of World Azerbaijanis, and other events are organised by the Embassy in conjunction with the Diaspora. Moroccans who have studied and worked in Azerbaijan can also be considered part of the Azerbaijani Diaspora. Engaging with them is a priority for our embassy." 

The Embassy of Azerbaijan, housed in a Moroccan-style villa-riad, is located on a very picturesque and prestigious street in Rabat - Avenue Ulad Said. It's impossible to grow weary of admiring every detail of this traditional oriental abode, erected in a style that emerged at the intersection of Mediterranean culture, Islamic, Andalusian, and Maghreb influences. There are arches, a hallmark of Islamic architecture extensively utilised in Morocco, not to mention the traditional mosaic, zelij. It adorns the interior of the building, consisting of numerous hexagonal and octagonal elements, forming radial patterns. As is known, in Islam, the depiction of animals or humans is prohibited. Hence, Moroccan tiles are replete with botanical and geometric motifs. Here, one can encounter intricate symmetrical designs, governed by special mathematical algorithms and a spectrum of hues. The most prevalent Moroccan motifs are abstract florals and hexagrams, as well as assorted compositions of geometric shapes.

Another cherished Moroccan motif, also present in the interior decor of the Azerbaijani Embassy, is the rosette with radial ornamentation, which embellishes the vaults of the mansion, reminiscent of the lid of an exquisite casket. And the ornate mouldings are a striking illustration of how a modest material, in the hands of a craftsman, can be transformed into precious filigree.

Maghreb Magic

Rabat's origins trace back to the 3rd century BC. One can only imagine the multitude of ancient edifices and structures within the city, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Yet, the principal attractions of Rabat encompass the Medina, the Kasbah Udaya fortress, the Andalusian Garden, the Mohammed V Mausoleum, the Hassan Minaret, and the Shella Necropolis.

To traverse Rabat's Medina is to immerse oneself in the dynamic and bustling existence of the locals: a whirlwind of activity, sound, and clamour. Here, everything remains as it was centuries ago, life seemingly suspended in time. Albeit, modernity has subtly infiltrated these remarkable mazes. The medina, the ancient segment of the city, boasts a stern layout, its mosque and markets, as well as the dwellings of its residents. It is situated in the northern sector of the city and is safeguarded by a fortress wall dating back to the 12th century. One can reach it via public transport at the Bab Chellah and Medina Rabat stops. In the lively markets of the Medina, one can procure virtually anything: silk, gold, jewellery, spices, confections, cosmetics, apparel, and more. Additionally, one can acquire interior adornments, including authentic leather oriental poufs, woven bedspreads, wool and lace carpets, lamps and pendants of diverse geometric forms crafted from coloured or stained glass, intricately carved metal and wood. It is true that the onus of quality rests solely with the purchaser. Caution against deception is always advised.

It should be noted that the Medina of Rabat occupied the entire city until it became the French colonial capital in the 20th century. This explains why the capital has a beautifully preserved old town, as well as the well-planned spacious French town of Ville Novelle (new town) with monumental buildings, modern cafés and hypermarkets, and avenues with palm trees along their edges, similar to the streets of Los Angeles.

(to be continued)