IDEAL RABAT EXPERIENCE

Not far from Medina is the historical core of Rabat - the ancient fortress of Kasbah of the Udayas, built in the times of the Emirs of Almoravid dynasty (Arret Bar El Had stop). It is an important historical landmark of Rabat, giving tourists the opportunity to immerse themselves in the remote era of the Middle Ages. Built at the mouth of the Bu Regreg River in the middle of the 12th century, like all fortresses, it served the function of protection and defence of the city from nomadic raids. By the way, the fortress was named after the Berber tribe Udaya, which was used to contain the local nomads. In the centre of the fortress, there is the Jamaa El Atiq mosque—its main attraction  constructed in 1150. It is operational and is the oldest mosque in the country.

The Kasbah of the Udayas is also called a city within a city, like Baku's Icherisheher. Its walls are full of iron gates and ancient doors, some of which are unclear where they lead, and there is also a museum of Moroccan art, where samples of local edged weapons are on display. You can get inside by going through the massive old main gate, which is a kind of huge portal.

Inside, however, it is quite a peaceful residential area with traditional well-kept blue-and-white houses, narrow streets, and small squares. About 3,000 people live here. Around the houses grow orange trees, and everywhere there are a lot of exotic flowers. Life is bustling, with many private shops and galleries with handicrafts. On the colourful streets, boys play soccer. As the locals tell it, Morocco is very fond of soccer. "We are like Brazil, the kids play soccer even at night," they say. By the way, Morocco, Portugal, and Spain have been chosen as host countries for the 2030 FIFA World Cup. The bid is expected to be ratified by the FIFA congress at the end of 2024. And the children are in anticipation of the event. A fairy tale that could come true. There's just a little bit of waiting left.

But let's get back to the Udaya Fortress. In its northern part is the most popular place among tourists - the observation deck. It offers a magnificent panorama of the Atlantic Ocean, the waves of which beat at the foot of the fortress. And it majestically and proudly rises above them, and from its loopholes stare into the vast expanse of the ocean the black mouths of ancient guns that have turned green from time.

Not far from the Kasbah Udaya is the exotic, beautifully maintained Andalusian Garden, which was laid out in the twentieth century. Here everything is calm and picturesque - huge walls are completely covered with thickets. Many cypresses, lemon trees, palms, plane trees, jasmine, laurel, and a variety of flowers that grow only in the Maghreb - a real green oasis full of life. There are about 650 species of flora in the garden. The Mediterranean climate contributes to this diversity. The whole area is designed in the form of multi-level terraces that descend to the river. The garden was originally laid out as an experiment for the University of Agronomic Research. But today it has become a traditional place of rest for tourists and residents of the city. Despite the fact that the garden was built in the XX century, it seems as if it is an ancient structure. Many birds, storks, and cats have found a home here, and in general, there is a peaceful atmosphere, quite suitable for meditation.

Another historical monument of Morocco is the necropolis of Shella. A complex of ancient and medieval ruins. This place is the oldest human settlement in the delta of the Bou Regreg River. The banks of the river were probably inhabited by Phoenicians and Carthaginians, who founded several colonies in Morocco. Shella is also the ruins of an ancient Roman city known as Sala Colonia, which is mentioned under the name Sala by Ptolemy. The ruined ancient Roman architectural elements, such as the forum and the triumphal arch, have survived to this day. The settlement was abandoned in 1154 AD in favour of neighbouring Sala. The Almohad dynasty used the ghost town as a necropolis. In the mid-14th century, during the Merinid reign, several monuments, a mosque, and a royal tomb were built. Many of Shella's buildings were damaged in the 1755 Lisbon earthquake. Nowadays, storks nest on the minarets and swallows take shelter on the fortress walls. The views from here are wonderful and you can enjoy them in the green garden with orange trees.

Head to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V, grandfather of the current king of the Alaouite dynasty, one of the most beloved and revered Moroccan kings who defended the country's independence. The mausoleum is one of Rabat's most popular attractions and is also the resting place of two of his sons, King Hassan (1929-1999) and Prince Abdallah (1935-1983). It is located in the eastern part of the capital, next to Hassan's minaret. Together they form a memorial ensemble, on the territory of which stands a beautiful mosque and a museum. It should be noted that the ancient columns of the unfinished mosque, the mausoleum, and the beautiful views of modern Rabat from here perfectly coexist with each other. The mausoleum was built in 1971 by Vietnamese architect Vo Toan, who did an excellent job of blending the memorial seamlessly into the surrounding natural landscape and architecture. This majestic and richly decorated building was constructed of snow-white Italian marble in the Moorish tradition and in compliance with Islamic architectural canons. Its emerald-coloured dome is decorated with symbols of the sultan's authority. The entrance to the mausoleum is guarded by royal guards with sculptural equanimity - numerous tourists are eager to take selfies with them.

The centuries-old unfinished minaret of Hasan is located in the square with two hundred stumpy columns - an unrealized ambitious project of the outstanding statesman and military leader of the times of the Caliphate of Cordoba, Muhammad al-Mansur. The grandiose minaret tower was being built for decades, but during the ruler's lifetime, it was only half completed - to a height of 44 meters. After his death, construction was suspended. The vast colonnade of the proposed mosque still amazes the imagination and allows us to judge the truly imperial scope of the author's architectural plan - the minaret was to be the highest, and the mosque - the largest in the Islamic world at that time in the name of Allah. Tourists like to take pictures here. The memorial is fenced by the remains of walls, in the loopholes of which pigeons settled down. The entrance to the territory of the memorial complex is guarded by the same unperturbed horse guards. Horses, interestingly enough, are also trained to be imperturbable.

Among modern cultural objects in Rabat, it is worth visiting the ISESCO headquarters and its interactive Museum of the Biography of the Prophet Muhammad and Muslim Civilization, where you can literally plunge into the history of the birth of the Islamic religion. By the way, visiting the museum will be interesting not only for Muslims but also for everyone who cares about their outlook. Here, with the help of a team of competent guides, you can familiarize yourself with thematic pavilions of the museum exposition, which acts as a mediator between a person and the section of the history of the origin of Islam in all its diversity represented in the exhibits. Through interactive equipment, the museum allows the visitor to feel that he is a creator and an inseparable part of this history. Since the exposition of the museum is a constantly changing reality, both the authors of the idea and the visitor participate in its creation. And the point is for the visitor to experience the life of the Prophet Muhammad as he would have seen it in real life. Here is a hall with 3D images and virtual reality, depicting the daily simple life of the Prophet, the interior of his modest room, bed, household utensils, and a recreated copy of the minbar from the very species of tamarisk tree from which the Messenger of Allah read his sermons, now kept in Cuba, in the first mosque on earth in the Saudi Medina. All this allows you to carry through a sense of the time in pre-Muslim Arabia in the 7th century. Here are models of the Kaaba, Mecca, and Medina as they were in the era of the Prophet.

Here is the hall dedicated to the Sunnah, the Muslims' sacred tradition about the life of the Prophet, which complements the Quran.

And, of course, the exposition of Moroccan attachment to the Messenger of Allah, which is reflected in the display of fragments of various symbols, buildings, and inscriptions with the name of the Prophet on them; historical manuscripts, rare paintings and coins, models of Moroccan architecture, jewellery, as well as traditional tools. The museum leaves a feeling of grandeur and tranquillity, purity and monumentality, imbued with the spirit of the fundamentals of the wise Islamic religion.

Two other modern architectural objects of Rabat that I would like to mention are the Rabat Grand Theatre, the largest in the Arab world and in Africa, and the nearby Mohammed VI Tower, which is named after the current ruler of the country - the tallest tower in Africa. These two structures sit at the junction of old and new Rabat, as an artistic and cultural reinterpretation of another phase in the life of the capital. The innovative building of the Grand Theatre, designed by the "queen of the curve" Zaha Hadid, is located by the Bou Regreg River and seems to echo the curve of its bed with its elongated volume. The wave-shaped structure seems to transmit the energy of the water. And the curves of a futuristic, weightless, and incredible structure - the Heydar Aliyev Center in Baku - immediately come to mind.

All of Africa in Single Zoo

Like Azerbaijanis, Morocco has a very reverent attitude towards family and children. The city has a lot of modern entertainment and play centres for children in large malls. Therefore, you can come here with your even young children - there is always something to keep them busy. I would like to emphasize Rabat zoo - Parc Zoologique National de Rabat, where a child can get great pleasure from getting acquainted with different species of animals in Africa.

The park is divided into several climatic zones, each representing a specific habitat. These include savannah, desert, tropical forest, mountain, and swamp zones. Each zone is labelled with name plates in French and Arabic for the convenience of visitors. In the savannah, you can see elephants, giraffes, lions, and rhinos. In the Atlas Mountain area, there are grazing bighorn sheep and Berber deer. In the rainforest, there are chimpanzees, and in the desert - white antelope, canna antelope, and camel. The wetlands are home to waterfowl, pelicans, and flamingos. There is also a pet zone with chickens, sheep, and ducks.

During its existence, the nature reserve has managed to collect and preserve a huge collection of endangered plants and animals. It can be seen that a creative team of zoologists and horticulturists has made every corner of the park cosy for the inhabitants and amazing for visitors. The park features more than 130 species of animals, about 50 species of birds, and several hundred plants. In its content, it is a unique attraction in the whole of Morocco. The zoo has a small farm created for educational purposes. Here the process of dairy and wool products production is demonstrated. It is an open interactive area where visitors can interact with the farm animals. Young visitors to the zoo are taught to respect the animals on the farm, to understand the species characteristics, variety of breeds, and nutrition of a particular type of animal. It can take almost the whole day to visit the park and walk around it.

Traditions, traditions, traditions...

A pleasant memory of the trip to Rabat was the attitude of Moroccans to honouring their traditions and way of life. It seems that neither time nor modernity changes these people. An interesting peculiarity. In traditional families, which are the majority, still prefer to eat with their hands, as they are considered cleaner. And a large dish with the meal is placed in the middle of the table, from which both the household and the guests take food.

The main feature of Moroccan people is hospitality. And if a visitor observes local etiquette and shows respect towards the locals, this is enough for a warm welcome. A week's stay in Rabat, which coincided with the holy month of Ramadan, allowed us to observe another ethnic trait of Moroccans as Muslims. A reverent attitude towards their faith - Islam. These days, no one in Morocco is indifferent to observing the rituals of this long celebration - regardless of gender and social status. The fasting period is observed by everyone, old and young. Their involvement in abstinence Rabattsy demonstrate dressing in the national long cloth dress - djellaba with a pointed hood and long sleeves. It has been worn since ancient times to protect from sandstorms and direct sunlight. Thanks to its wide cut, the djellaba perfectly cools the body during the heat. All this allows you to feel the special local colour and holiness of the coming month.

During Ramadan, life in the country seems to stop. Most stores, cafes, and restaurants close or operate on a reduced schedule at the beginning of the fast. It is customary for Moroccans to start the evening feast at home, with their families, after taking time off from work. After the meal and namaz, some people return to their work schedule, which can last until 12 at night. Moroccans have a sacred reverence for traditions and customs. They never violate them. This explains the respect of the locals for the sacredness and importance of Ramadan.

Fireworks of Flavour

A tour of the capital is especially charming when you discover the local cuisine and spend time in authentic Rabat restaurants. There is a characteristic atmosphere of constant celebration in the air, which is created by local people. Singing Berber songs, dancing to the dynamic rhythm of the Maghreb derbok (cup-shaped hand drum), intoxicating spicy smell of local dishes, a special tradition of pouring mint tea into small cups, fragrant desserts - everything going on around creates the feeling of watching a documentary about the colour, local life, and customs of an unknown overseas country. Suddenly you begin to realize that you are not a bystander in this movie. And Moroccan cuisine is another important detail that makes it worth coming to this fabulous country.

This unique blend of flavours was formed under the influence of Africa, the Middle East, and France. Bright and unlike anything else. Morocco's national dishes are based on fruits, vegetables, meat, and seafood. Salads and vegetable stews are very popular here and are very diverse. And oranges are used almost everywhere.

But the main identity is the spices. Moroccans spice their dishes with a variety of spices and aromatic herbs to achieve an exceptional taste. It is definitely worth trying the local cuisine, a firework of flavours is guaranteed.

And if the crowning glory of Azerbaijani cuisine is pilaf, in Morocco it is tagine. Beef, quince, and other ingredients of this dish are stewed in a special way. It is cooked in a special dish of the same name with a cone-shaped lid, which is sold as a souvenir in all sorts of variations in Rabat in every shop and supermarket.

Another traditional dish, couscous (semolina grains), is the perfect side dish for poultry dishes. It is traditionally served on Friday when the whole family gathers for dinner. You can judge how tasty it is by the ingredients added: besides the traditional raisins and apricots, nuts, carrots, onions, tomatoes, and spices are added to couscous.

From pastries, you should definitely try the crowning dessert with almond filling in the thinnest (thinner than tissue paper) phyllo dough - briouates. They are deep-fried and then dipped in honey. You should also try the so-called "gazelle horns" (kaab el ghazal), a delicate product made of flour and butter, filled with a paste of almonds, cinnamon, sugar, and orange water. They look like curved tubes with pointed ends.

The Briwate bellouz cakes deserve a special mention. They are very small. They are made of several thin layers of pastry. Some cakes have a layer of ground almonds, while others have walnuts, peanuts, and coconut. The cookies are also made as bags of dough with nut filling. They look like a work of art. The taste is simply divine.

Moroccan desserts also include macrud - baked tubes filled with dates, oatmeal goriba cookies, crispy beshkito cookies, mkhansha - serpentine with almond filling, various pancakes - bastia, rgaif, bergir and many other delicious things.

They are similar to pancakes made of puff pastry. In taste and appearance, they resemble Azerbaijani puff bread fasali. They are made square. The recipe includes flour and very fine couscous, oil, and water. The msemen itself is not sweet. It is eaten with honey or jam, served usually for breakfast or dinner - with tea. Sometimes Moroccans have French baguettes for breakfast in bakeries.

Gifts from Rabat

You can keep the impressions you get from your trip for a long time by buying original souvenirs, traditional clothes, and other items that reflect the character of this amazing country. The abundance of the most diverse goods makes your head spin. However, it would be a big mistake to bring from Morocco a standard set of postcards and magnets.

What should you pay attention to first of all? Certainly, ethnic jewellery, interior elements, lamps, carpets, mirrors, Moroccan metal teapots, tagine dishes, ceramic dishes, sweets, coffee, tea, spices. Most of the spices widely used in Moroccan cuisine can be bought in Azerbaijan. But those bought in Morocco have an incredible flavour because of their freshness.

From clothing items, you can buy babushi - leather slippers with a sharp nose bent inwards or arched upwards, like those worn by the cartoon character Aladdin. In the rating of popular tourist souvenirs from clothes, babushi take the first place. They are worn by everyone: for men, yellow or white colour is preferred, for women and children - multicoloured embroidery. You can take a closer look at the djellaba.

Leather belts, bags, wallets, and shoes are made by the locals quite well. Moroccan leather is very soft, of high quality, with a beautiful texture.

The purchase of argan oil should be singled out as a separate expense. The argan tree grows only here. Its oil is also produced only by locals. And even if buying this unique product will hit your budget, it is necessary to bring the oil home from Morocco. It comes in two types: edible and cosmetic. Each variant is useful for humans - and this is a scientifically proven fact - even in small quantities. The edible version lowers blood cholesterol, helps with rheumatism and skin diseases. Cosmetic, on the other hand, smooths wrinkles, strengthens hair follicles, and promotes the growth of healthy hair. Never buy argan oil in markets, shops, or even supermarkets. For this, there are specialized stores that sell cosmetic product lines with argan oil added along with the pure product.

But whatever you buy, be sure to bargain. Even when it seems that the seller has discounted the original price by a sufficient amount, it is possible to reduce more. Usually, the first price quoted by the seller is five times too high.

Galloping through Casablanca

The main symbol of Casablanca, which brought us to this Moroccan city for one day, is the amazing Hassan II Mosque. The height of its snow-white openwork minaret is more than two hundred meters, it is the highest in the world. The monumentality of the construction can be judged by the number of years it was erected: construction began on July 12, 1986, and was completed in 1989 - to the 60th anniversary of the king himself. However, the building was not opened until August 30, 1993.

The mosque is equipped with a sliding roof, a floor heating system, and a laser spotlight that beams toward Mecca, helping worshippers position themselves more accurately during prayer.

About half of the mosque is directly above the waters of the Atlantic and is equipped with glass floors through which worshippers can see the ocean below them. It seats 105,000 people, 25,000 of whom can sit directly above the water. The idea of building the mosque over the waves of the Atlantic came from the desire and dream of King Hassan II of Morocco, inspired by a quote from the Koran "The throne of Allah is on the water". The city of Casablanca was not as impressive as Rabat, perhaps because we were passing through there. But a visit to the Hassan II Mosque, which is more than just the seventh largest mosque in the world, during the holy month of Ramadan left a lasting impression.

Unfortunately, the time allotted for getting acquainted with the city was not enough to visit the legendary Rick's cafe, around which the plot of the 1942 Oscar-winning Hollywood romantic drama "Casablanca" starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman was twisted. I only managed to take a photo against its backdrop.

Ah, Casablanca... Palm trees, the Atlantic, business buildings on every corner, Morocco's economic lungs, a bustling metropolis. But that's another story.