30 April 2024

Tuesday, 00:06

VISITING THE GOOD OL' GENDARME

How a film with Louis de Funès turned once serene Saint-Tropez into a fashionable and expensive Côte d'Azur resort

Author:

01.04.2024

Saint-Tropez is a small yet prestigious resort located on the Côte d'Azur coast of the Mediterranean. The peninsula is renowned for its pristine beaches, untouched natural beauty, picturesque mountain villages, and charming vineyards. Unlike other areas along the Côte d'Azur, Saint-Tropez purposely didn't have a railway line to limit tourist influx and preserve its pristine allure. Despite this effort, the town's tranquil lifestyle changed with the filming of several movies by notable directors that brought fame and trendiness to the resort. Notably, the film And God Created Woman directed by Roger Vadim and featuring Brigitte Bardot, and the series starring the iconic comic actor Louis de Funès, significantly influenced Saint-Tropez's evolution.

The immensely popular series featuring Lieutenant Cruchot captivated audiences worldwide, including in Azerbaijan. In the 1980s, Azerbaijani viewers eagerly tuned in to the TV program Retro on Saturday nights to watch foreign films, particularly enjoying the comedic escapades of Cruchot and his gendarme colleagues. These films served as a benchmark for French comedy for many, with Louis de Funès being celebrated as the foremost comedian globally.

The first instalment of the series, The Gendarme of Saint-Tropez, premiered in 1964, utilising the town's charming locations such as the harbour, Pampelonne beach, and the mayor's office as backdrops. Local residents actively participated in the filming, adding authenticity to the scenes. Shot in colour film, a luxury at the time, the series showcased Funès' comedic prowess at its peak. The film's success in France and beyond led to a series of sequels, culminating in The Gendarme and the Gendarmes in 1982, marking Funès' final film.

The films' popularity propelled Saint-Tropez into the spotlight, attracting tourists from across Europe. Today, alongside attractions like the famous beach Club 55 and the annual regatta, the town continues to benefit from its cinematic reputation.

A prominent site in Saint-Tropez today is the Gendarmerie and Cinema Museum, situated near the central bus station and the harbour. This museum showcases the history of the gendarmes in Saint-Tropez during the 20th century and highlights the iconic films shot in the area. Admission prices are €5 for adults, €3 for teenagers and students, and free for children under 12.

Of special note is that the museum now housed in the former Gendarmerie building, which operated from 1879 to 2003. The museum's collection mainly focuses on the Saint-Tropez Gendarmerie film series, displaying posters, costumes, photographs, and cars from the films. Visitors can encounter a life-size bronze statue of Louis de Funès, who stood at 1.58 meters tall, along with a cinema room screening clips from the series and insights from the characters about their filming experiences.

During your museum visit, you'll have the opportunity to watch excerpts from over 70 films set in Saint-Tropez, including Roger Vadim's And God Created Woman featuring Brigitte Bardot, a role that experts credit for propelling Bardot's career to stardom. The museum also houses a collection of artefacts, photographs, and documents showcasing the history of the national gendarmerie, displaying uniforms, weapons, equipment, and vehicles from that era. Additionally, visitors can explore a small tourist shop on the museum's ground floor offering films from the exhibition and various souvenirs.

 

Travelling to Saint-Tropez

Before immersing yourself in the museum and other attractions of Saint-Tropez, you'll need to plan your journey there. As mentioned earlier, Saint-Tropez lacks a railway system, making private transfer the most convenient and quickest mode of transportation. Private transfers typically cost around €160-€200 per car for 3-4 passengers. Alternatively, you can rent a car at major airports in Nice, Marseille, or Toulon and enjoy a scenic coastal drive to Saint-Tropez.

For budget-conscious travellers, public transport is a more economical but time-consuming option. From Nice, for instance, you can take a one-hour train ride (€14.40) to Saint-Raphael and then a bus (€2.10) for 1.5 hours to reach Saint-Tropez. While more affordable, this route could take up to three hours.

 

Accommodation and Expenses

Saint-Tropez is known for its exclusivity and high prices, attracting celebrities who rent luxurious villas for private yet vibrant holidays. The town offers a range of accommodations, with hotel prices varying widely. A basic option for July 2024 may start at €140 for two people without breakfast, but prices for three-star hotels and apartments in summer can range from €550-€750 per day. Five-star hotels typically cost between €750-€1500 per day, while good apartments and villas for 4-5 people can be around €1500 per day.

Savvy travellers seeking more affordable lodging options may consider neighbouring towns like St. Maxime or Ler Issambre, where prices can be as low as €90-€100 per day. Another nearby option is Port Grimaud, accessible by boat within half an hour, known as the Venice of the Côte d'Azur for its colourful architecture and canals.

 

Culinary Delights in Saint-Tropez

After sightseeing, visitors can indulge in Provençal cuisine at the numerous restaurants and cafes, particularly around the main harbour and beaches. Popular dishes include la tapenade, seafood bouillabaisse served with garlic croutons (€15-20), and Provençal-style cod or dorado (chupra) stewed with cream and olive oil (around €25). Cheese aficionados can savour various sheep's and goat's milk cheeses alongside foie gras variations. For dessert, don't miss tarte tropezienne (an airy bun with a creamy layer) or calisson (a sweet treat of candied fruit and almonds with white glaze).

After a satisfying lunch, indulge in some shopping in Saint-Tropez. While the town may be small, you can explore boutique stores of renowned designers in the central part of the resort. Discover the Le Brigitte Bardot boutique featuring the initials B.B. or consider picking up bracelets from Valerie as mementos of your holiday. The local Dupont factory crafts smoking pipes, cigars, and lighters catering to men's tastes. Souvenir enthusiasts will find a variety of shops offering local handicrafts alongside inexpensive Chinese trinkets. Treat yourself or loved ones to local cheeses, chocolates, olive oil, and French perfume as delightful gifts.

 

Exploring Saint-Tropez

Beyond its allure for the wealthy and famous who relax (some topless) on the stunning azure beaches and frequent places like Club 55, Saint-Tropez hosts several annual festivals and international events that captivate global attention. One such event is the religious festival of Les Bravades Saint-Tropez in mid-May, running for over four centuries with solemn masses at churches honouring the martyr Torpes.

The Giraglia Rolex Cup, the prestigious Mediterranean regatta, has been a highlight for over 60 years in June along the Saint-Tropez-Sanremo route. In mid-September, the luxurious Paradis Posrches (Porsche Parade) draws over 300 Porsche cars from across Europe for a grand gathering.

Throughout the year, Saint-Tropez offers various captivating sights. Explore the Citadelle de Saint Tropez, a fortress built between 1602 and 1608 showcasing the town's history and housing the Museum of Maritime History. Antique lovers can visit the tenth-century Chateau Suffren for a unique shopping experience and museum visit. The Musée de l'Annonciade features avant-garde artworks from the 19th and 20th centuries, while the Maison des Papillons displays over 35,000 living and extinct butterfly specimens.

Stroll through the market square (Place des Lices) with its medieval charm, where locals sometimes play pétanque. On market days, find fresh produce, bread, cheese, clothes, accessories, and jewellery. During summer at the Old Port quay, admire yachts and artists showcasing their paintings. La Ponche neighbourhood reflects the historic fishing village's essence with its narrow streets, colourful shutters, and weathered walls.

During summer explorations, take a swim almost directly in the city centre at La Fontanette beach for a refreshing break amidst sightseeing. Many visitors recommend experiencing Saint-Tropez at least once in a lifetime, even if just for a day. Saint-Tropez eagerly awaits your visit!



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