
LAND OF LEGEND
For centuries travellers have praised the beauty of Zaqatala District
Author: Aynur TALIBOVA Zaqatala
This land of roses is also famed for its majestic, 750-year-old, plane trees. The most aromatic tobacco in the world is said to grow here, but the abundant nut trees remain the main symbol of Zaqatala.
Hazel nut trees, called "bread baskets" by the locals, are the area's greatest asset. Nut trees grow on some 9,000 hectares. Local factories process around 3,000 t of nuts per year. Nut reception points can be seen on the roadside.
The attractive section of road from Saki to Zaqatala bodes well for the journey. Travellers were captivated by the beauty of this road at the start of the last century. The Zaqatala district was an important point on the famous Tiflis - Nuxa (Saki) - Samaxi - Baku route. Work on the road to Zaqatala began in 1867. In 1909 travellers spoke of a 68-verst (approximately 70-km) highway Nuxa - Zaqatala - Lagodekhi lined with nut trees and different fruit trees. Zaqatala was the only city and administrative centre in the district. It began to develop in the mid-19th century and received its city status in 1850.
Zaqatala state nature reserve
The reserve was established in 1929 on the southern slopes of the Greater Caucasus mountain range in Zaqatala and Balakan districts. One of the first nature reserves in the South Caucasus, it was set up to protect the local flora and fauna. It spans an area 600-3,600 metres above sea level. At around 2,400 m above sea level are alpine meadows. An area of 24,000 hectares is home to more than 800 species of plants, 32 species of mammals and almost 90 species of birds. Twelve species of local flora and fauna have been included in the Red Book (of endangered species). The nature reserve, ideal for ecotourism, is also home to a variety of castles and waterfalls. A journey on foot or horseback along the tourist trails gives the chance to watch and film the birds and animals. There are convenient places to rest or spend the night along the way and you can hunt for pheasant, water fowl, boars, rabbits and other animals. There are good conditions for skiing in the winter near the village of Qas. There are several tourist routes in Zaqatala District which allow you to get to know the area better.
Lazat - Car - Shamil Castle
This is the most central and popular route. Shamil Castle, the final stop on the route, is also known as Shamilevka by locals. The defensive castle, on top of a mountain covered with thick forest, can be reached only on foot or horseback. The road up takes three to four hours while locals say it takes all day to walk there. The castle is one of the shelters that Sheikh Shamil used when he was fighting the Russians.
The village of Car is the district's main historical centre. It is just one kilometre from the town of Zaqatala, which became the district's administrative centre relatively recently. The population of Car is mainly Muslim Avars. The village has a bust of Sheikh Shamil and many historical monuments. The 18th-century mosque in the centre of the village was an important religious and political centre and many leaders who fought the Persian and Russian occupations came from here.
The villages of Car and Tala are very old. Three hundred years ago they were subordinate to the sultanate of Ilisu. In the first half of the 18th century they fought against Nadir Shah whose imposition of excessive taxes on the rebellious local population in 1735 led to a major uprising. Although Nadir Shah's punitive detachments razed the villages to the ground, he still could not subdue these people.
Cingez Castle (18th century)
The castle, also known as Cingiz, is in a nut grove on Ibrahim kisi's land. In the Zaqatala-Balakan area, most of the historic monuments are found on private land, unlike in other areas.
Such four-cornered castles predate the use of firearms. An Arabic inscription 20-25 metres from the castle's defensive wall dates to the 18th century.
The frequent changes of ruler in this area (Ottoman and Safavid) led to frequent uprisings. In 1578 the famous Qanix battle between the Ottoman and Safavid empires took place on the banks of the River Qanix. After this historic battle, which ended in victory for the Turks, the region remained under their influence for a time. In the Zaqatala-Balakan area this could be seen particularly in celebrations to mark the birthday of the Prophet Mohammed. To this day the religious verse (ilahi) of Yunus Emre is recited at these events.
Lazzat
Lazzat is the most popular recreation spot in Zaqatala. Its name translates as "pleasure" or "satisfaction" which are exactly the feelings experienced by visitors here. Four kilometres from the town of Zaqatala, Lazzat is located on a mountainside on the territory of the village of Car and has been operating since 1986. Clean air, beautiful views and the chattering of the mountain river lend the area a unique feel. You can lunch in the specially furbished hollows of ancient trees, surrounded by their branches and enjoying the view. You can hunt for wild oxen or enjoy exquisite Azerbaijani, Georgian and Dagestani dishes. There is one dish that every visitor should try - it's called Lazzat devresi and is a very tasty chicken and flour dish. Fish-lovers should visit the Trout Association in the village of Maqov, also known as the Fisherman's Rest Centre. Trout, a tasty and expensive freshwater fish, are farmed here. Large quantities of the fish, reared in special pools, are sent to market.
The rest centre is in a green park, where a variety of trees and roses grow. A hotel and luxury and super luxury chalets have been built here recently.
Place names
There are several legends about the etymology of the name Zaqatala. Local people say that it means "Zaki tala", which translates literally as "Zaki's fields". Long ago a man by the name of Zechariah cleared a small area of trees and built a house on the cleared field ("tala"), hence the name Zakari tala, Zakutala.
It's more likely that the name Zaqatala is a distorted form of the word "Sakatala", which means "plain of the Saks". The Sak tribes came to west Asia in the 7th century BC and settled in (Caucasian) Albania from the right bank of the Kur River to the foothills of the Caucasus. These tribes lent their name to Zaqatala, which was originally Sakatala or Plain of the Saks.
History
Famous historical and archaeological monuments show that this area has been inhabited by man since the third millennium BC. Archaeological finds made at Alovlu Tapa in the Alazan River valley date from the Stone Age (third to first millennia BC). Peasants from the village of Muganli found cleavers in the shape of horse teeth, clay crockery and children's graves when they were working in fields not far from the village.
Zaqatala was in the western part of Caucasian Albania. In the early centuries AD Christianity was the official religion of the state, to which this region was subordinate for many years, and the area's territory is full of Albanian Christian monuments from that period. Most of the temples in the woods and villages dotted about the slopes of the trapezoidal Armatay Mountain are Albanian Christian.
Castles, defensive earthworks, temples, houses, graves, workshops, mosques and minarets from the early centuries AD can be seen here. Almost 100 historical monuments protected by the state are recorded in the district. Zaqatala's villages have a dozen 5th-7th-century AD Albanian monuments, known as Albanian houses.
These ancient Albanian monuments, that resemble one another, can be found in the villages of Mamrux, Pasan and Muxax. The temples are thought to have been dedicated initially to the trinity of gods, Mithra, Ahuramazda and Anahida, linked with worship of the Sky, Sun and Moon, heavenly bodies in the infinite Universe. In the pre-Islamic period Christianity and religious beliefs concerning the Sun and Moon dominated here.
Mosques
Around 40 of the mosques in north-west Zaqatala, which has the highest concentration of mosques, lost their minarets in the Soviet period. Village mosques were built in the national architectural style. The town mosque, completed in 1998-2002, was built by master architect Adem Elmas from Giresun (Turkey) in the Ottoman Turkish style.
The Cuma Mosque in the village of Asagi Tala was the largest mosque in the Caucasus in its day. It covers 20 hectares and 2,500 people can pray here at any one time. The funds to complete construction are said to have been provided by millionaire philanthropist Haci Zeynalabdin Tagiyev.
Yuxari Cardaqlar village
The village is 14 km north-east of Zaqatala town and borders the Greater Caucasus range to the north and the village of Muxax to the south. Yuxari Cardaqlar - Muxax is one of Zaqatala's internal routes. The village is home to the medieval Suay Castle, also known as the Tower. It was once a guard post on the caravan route. It is thought to have provided information on the movement of caravans and was used as a centre and beacon. It is well worth visiting the area for its captivating beauty, ancient historical monuments and kind, hospitable people. Everything is in place here for ecotourism: the River Bitdili with its trout and the thick forest, rich in different fruit trees and berries. The intoxicating scent of flowers, birdsong and cool springs at every turn make this an ideal place for picnics. A trip to Pari Castle is a must. Built of hewn stone on a mountain top, it looks like a magnificent statue.
Legend of Pari Castle (4th to 6th centuries)
Although it is popularly known as Pari Castle, it is in fact a Zoroastrian temple. The place is militarily and strategically important. As the paths to Pari Castle have been destroyed it is impossible to get there. Locals say that if you climb for an hour you can only get close to it but not inside. There are many legends about Pari Castle, one of which was included in Yusif Qallaxov's (1889) Names of the Caucasus and a Description of the Land. The legend says: "World conquering Tamerlane reaches Azerbaijan. Concerned at the fierce resistance of the local inhabitants he mobilizes his strongest commanders to seize the area. The great conqueror hears rumours that an outstandingly beautiful and brave young woman is amongst the local population who fight to the death and the last man standing. This girl by the name of Pari kills Tamerlane's favourite commander in a fierce battle. Angered by the news, Tamerlane sends Pari a message with a proposal that she lay down her arms. He also proposes to marry the girl. Infuriated by Pari's reply, 'better to die than surrender to the enemy', Tamerlane orders that the enemy be treated mercilessly. Many people die, while Pari climbs up from the fighting to a peak where the castle is now located. Aware that she is losing strength and that defeat is inevitable, she throws herself into the river below. Searching the whole area, enemy soldiers find the girl's body several days later and take her to Tamerlane. He orders that Pari's body be left in his tent for the night. The next day Tamerlane's troops withdraw from the area and attack in a different place. It is said that when an old man suggested to Tamerlane in the twilight of his years another campaign in the Caucasus, he replied: 'There even the women die as proudly as the men.' The great conqueror never set foot on this land again.
Qaladuzu Park and Zaqatala Castle
A park of culture and rest was laid out in 1947 in the area known as Qaladuzu. This is the highest part of the town. The park covers 13 hectares and is home to 27 species of tree. There are monuments, carousels, teahouses and a restaurant in this recreational spot popular with Zaqatala residents. Russian officers who served here after the capture of Zaqatala in 1803 are buried in Qaladuzu, home to a large church and to Zaqatala Castle, which played an important role in the history of the area.
From the start of the 19th century Russia waged several campaigns in the region, suffering great losses every time. The ruthless and undefeated Russian general, Gulyakov, was killed here in 1804. The wave of uprisings that swept the whole Russian Empire started here. In order to prevent revolt the tsarist government decided to build major fortifications and fortresses and to base troops here.
Work began on this castle of great military and strategic importance in 1804 and finished in 1830. The castle had three entrances and covered nine hectares. Some 30 rooms were built inside for different purposes. A powerful garrison and its artillery were based here at one time. The castle, one of the largest in the South Caucasus, was the main stronghold for putting down several peasant uprisings.
Mutinous sailors from the battleship Potemkin were sent here in 1905. Many years later a film about these historic events The Rebellious Battalion was filmed here. Restoration has been under way in the fortress in recent years.
Mosul village
There are cities with this name in Iraq and Turkey. Weddings in this village are very interesting and involve all the residents. There is no need for invitations. A tent is erected and tables groan under the weight of all the food. Men and women sit at table at the same time in this area. Everyone eats, drinks and dances, taking it in turns to dance to Caucasian melodies. Local weddings are like contests where the dancers have to show off their skills.
Salaxo
This is the oldest and best loved men's dance at weddings and is widespread across the Caucasus. It has an interesting history. Gypsies travelled around the villages and took with them monkeys and bears to put on shows for the local people. To the accompaniment of a simple melody on the tambourine the animals jumped, leapt and performed cartwheels and somersaults. The owner put a piece of wood on the back of the animal symbolizing a bundle of logs and ordered it to appear before the spectators. The word "sala" could often be heard in this song which led to the word "salaxo", popularly pronounced as "shalakho". Two to three people dance "salaxo" at the same time but each of them performs a different dance. The dancers compete in skill, technique and artistry.
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