TOURIST PARADISE

Residents of Saki do not react to compliments on the beauty of these places; they are used to them. Everyone likes Saki. Everyone admires it and almost everyone praises it. Saki is a real tourist paradise and the centre of tourism for the whole north-western region of Azerbaijan. It is the most popular site today, visited by almost all foreign guests coming to Azerbaijan.

Marhal

Those who like to relax in the country are well-acquainted with Marhal. It is regarded as the most popular holiday destination. Having achieved popularity in the 1980s, Marhal became a must on the itineraries of both local and foreign guests. Residents of Saki and neighbouring districts come here in summer in search of cooler weather. In recent years, catamarans have appeared on the man-made lake as another leisure pursuit. 

Marhal is beautiful at all times of the year. Even if you don't spend the night here, you should at least take a breath of the intoxicating air and enjoy the captivating view. Nearby, only 7 km away, there is another wonder of Saki - the Xan mountain plateau where you can continue your trip.

The Xan mountain plateau

As the name implies, this is the place where the Saki khans had a residence. They say that with the onset of hot weather, the khan of Saki moved to this plateau together with his family, servants and domestic animals and remained there until the cold weather returned. Legend has it that a glass channel was constructed to supply milk to the khan's palace.

The plateau is very high up and is above the tree line. But the air is saturated with the intoxicating fragrance of mountain flowers, especially thyme. In clear sunny weather, neighbouring districts can be clearly seen. As you approach the Xan plateau, beware of wolfhounds guarding flocks of sheep. It is better to find the shepherd, and he will protect you from the dogs and treat you to bread, cheese and fragrant tea made over a fire. You can also take food and a tent with you and camp out overnight.

After a few minutes here, you realize what we miss in the bustle of the city. Only after taking a deep breath of pure mountain air and seeing the blush cheeks of the herder, do you realize the wisdom of the Saki khan who chose this paradise for his holiday retreat.

The Xan plateau stretches for 15-20 km north of Saki. It is better to use a horse or a jeep to get to this place of unspoilt nature. The only road to the Xan plateau goes through Marhal, where you can resolve the issue of transport. Never mind if you don't have your own car. A local guide will provide you with safe passage through the forest which stretches across a steep slope. While travelling in his car, you can observe the unique panorama, see the squirrels and other forest animals and, if you are lucky enough, even a frightened bear cub. This entertaining trip will be a real pleasure and leave a lasting impression. It is well worth trying. Guides recommend climbing the plateau in summer when there is less rain. Floods following the rains can sweep away anything in their path - bushes, trees and even big boulders. You cannot walk or drive until a tractor comes to clear the way. Residents of Saki hope that the situation will change and these places will become more attractive for tourists if a cable car or funicular is built from Marhal to the Xan plateau, although thrill-seekers are quite happy to use the mountain paths.

Your adventures will not end with a trip to Marhal and to the Xan plateau. On your way back, you will have another trip that will get the adrenalin flowing. But we will come to that later. Now let us talk about another sight that is well worth seeing.

Mustafa Bay's place

Residents of Saki also refer to this place as "Mustafa Bay's camp". Who was he? Everyone asks this question. He was a member of the Saki khans' family in the early 20th century. This place used to be his private property, where he spent his holidays with his family in summer. After the Bolsheviks took over in 1920, they set up a pioneer camp which was popular throughout the Soviet Union for many years. Now it is a private recreation centre. Compared to other such places, prices are very low in Saki: only 6-8 manats per person for B&B. It is a real godsend if you want to escape from the clamour of the city, take a breath of fresh air and enjoy the beauty of a thick forest. The Gulxali quarter, where "Mustafa Bay's place" is situated, is where Saki was originally founded. The quarter is noted for other sights. There is the house in which poet and playwright Mirza Fatali Axundov (1812-1877) was born and grew up - he was the founder of theatrical drama in the East - and also the 15th century Gulxali mosque, of which only a minaret remains.

It is impossible see Saki in one day. Those who want to have a good rest and see all the sights of the city should spend three or four days here. Where can you stay? The choice is quite extensive. You can stay at hotels in the city or the suburbs, in modern cottages or in the houses of local residents who are ready to help tourists heading for Kohna Qala. Tourists can also use the Karavan Saray Hotel where they will enjoy a real botanical environment. This old hotel was opened up to visitors to Saki after restoration work in 2002. It is designed for 75 people, but it is very difficult to find a room here unless you book in advance.

Horse breeding and hunting

How else can you spend time in Saki? Horse and sport lovers can watch traditional races as well as horse games. The Saki horse-breeding centre keeps and breeds various horses. You can enjoy their beauty and even ride them. Saki is also one of the major bases for hunting in Azerbaijan. Those who love hunting can visit the Hunters' Club which holds a licence from the Azerbaijani Ministry of Ecology and Natural Resources. After registration, you can go hunting for the wild boar, the Caucasian goat and other animals whose list is established by the same ministry.

Historical monuments

In the first century, Saki was one of the biggest cities in Caucasian Albania. One of the 11 administrative units of the Albanian state in the northwest was called Saki. This is also proved by the numerous historical and cultural monuments from the era of Caucasian Albania.

Caravanserais 

The main shopping and business centres are situated on the bank of the Gurcancay River which runs through the city centre. There are many bazaars and caravanserais in Saki, since it has been a centre of handicrafts and trade from ancient times.

Caravanserais were buildings commonly seen in the feudal East. Every traveller to Saki has given them special attention. They played a large part in the establishment and development of this city in the Middle Ages.

In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were five big caravanserais in Saki - Isfahan, Tabriz, Lazgin, Armenian and Taza (New), where merchants from distant countries used to stay. Their goods were also safe here. The merchants stored their goods in the basements, sold them on the ground floor and lived on the first floor.

Two caravanserais built in the 18th century and known as the Asagi (Lower) and Yuxari (Higher) caravanserais still exist. They were built by local workers. The Yuxari caravanserai is now used as a hotel. The dome installed at its entrance is said to be one of the largest in the Middle East.

The Tea House in this caravanserai is perfect for the tea commonly served in Azerbaijan. Saki halva, the famous Saki dessert, various jams - and lemon, which helps reduce blood pressure after the consumption of so many sweets - are served here. Add in the waiters who speak English with a Saki accent, and you can easily imagine the whole colour of the experience.

The Albanian Church of Kis

The Albanian Church of Kis is included on the UNESCO list of world monuments. This church, which is situated in the village of Kis in the Saki District, belongs to the 1st-5th centuries and is thought to be one of the earliest known churches in the South Caucasus. Kis is an ancient village situated some 6-7 km from Saki on the bank of the Kis River.

The church is visited by almost all local and foreign visitors to Saki. Don't be put off by the closed doors of the local museum - its caretaker is a local resident who has an open-ended working day. You can knock on his door at any time and ask him to open the door. Our guide, Nasib Muxtarov, said that in each of the villages situated on mountain slopes, you can see monuments from the early Middle Ages. Let's familiarize you with some of them.

The Bideys Temple

This is situated in the mountains, 8-10 km from the village of Bideys. Built from big, square stones, the temple drowns in greenery. Its architectural style belongs to the 7th-8th centuries. The area where the Bideys Temple is situated is one of indescribable beauty. The temple stands in a clearing surrounded by forests and mountains. Our guide said that large clay jugs were found during archaeological excavations here. Much work remains to be done to study the history of this temple and the territory where it stands.

The village of Fazil

The Tapabasi necropolis, which remains from antiquity, was discovered in the village of Fazil during excavations which began in the 1990s and continued for several years. Scientists found evidence that this place was inhabited in the Bronze Age - the 3rd millennium BC. The discoveries testify that ancient rituals resembling those of shamans were held here.

Power supplies to the village had been disrupted and we went down into the maze-like barrow with candles in our hands. Despite the hot summer weather, it was freezing cold inside. There were animal and human bones all over the place - just like in horror movies. The Tapabasi necropolis, where barrows remain totally intact, is the first labyrinth museum in Azerbaijan.

Galarsan-Gorarsan Castle

This castle is situated on a steep rock at the top of Mount Qaratapa on the western bank of the Kis River, 8 km from Saki. This strategically important castle was founded by the ruler of Saki, Alican, in the 15th century. Consequently, or to be more precise, under the rule of Haci Calabi Khan (1739-1775), this castle had a great role to play in the history of the whole region.

Haci Calabi Khan was the founder of the first independent Saki khanate and a prominent Azerbaijani statesman in the 18th century. Residents of Saki still remember him with pride. Haci Calabi Khan was a leader of the people's liberation war against the Iranian Shah Nadir. Having executed Nadir Shah's governor, Malik Nacafqulu, in 1743, he proclaimed Saki an independent state and refused to obey the shah.

In response to an ultimatum issued by Nadir, Calabi said: Galarsan-Gorarsan (Come and See). He marshalled the elders, prominent people of the city and their families and retreated to a mountain castle near the village of Kis. They say that from then onwards, the castle was named Galarsan-Gorarsan.

Although the road to the castle is not very long, it is very tiring. You realize that you are standing on a strategic point of the steep rock once you get to the very top, puffed out. The castle looks onto an amazing view of the environs.

Only here do you realize what Haci Calabi was hoping for when he opposed the powerful Nadir Shah. Nadir's brother Ibrahim marched to Saki twice, in 1744 and in 1745, with a 20,000-strong army in order to suppress the rebellion in Saki, but failed to seize the castle both times. Although Haci Calabi left the castle voluntarily and laid down his arms two years later, they say that he did so only after realizing that further resistance was pointless. Amazed by the resilience of Haci Calabi, Nadir Shah allowed him to keep the title of Saki Khan. Since then, people have said that "Haci Calabi was a great man".

Today Galarsan-Gorarsan Castle welcomes everyone who comes sightseeing to this area. So the name of the castle "Come and See" still applies, but for a completely different reason. In a word, Saki is a real discovery for those who love historical excursions. Anyone who leaves this place has only one wish - to visit Saki again!