
THE DIET OF PAHLAVANS
The culinary traditions of Azerbaijan left their mark on the development of sports
Author: Vafa ZEYNALOVA Baku
Like each region is characterized by its own cultural traditions, each land cultivates its own heroes and national sports as a result of historical and territorial characteristics.
From time immemorial
Azerbaijan has been renowned for its pahlavans from time immemorial, and wrestling was a recognized sport. The legends and tales of the Azerbaijani people and literary monuments of antiquity talk about wrestling competitions a lot. Along with wrestling, the legends of the epic "Dada Qorqud" - the ancient written monument of our history - describe other martial arts as well. Of course, no one thought at the time about the revitalizing role of sports in the lives of people, and these fights were just one of the kinds of entertainment at folk festivals and celebrations. Brave men in fairy tales and legends tested their power on lions, oxen and camels, and fought each other on sashes. As time went on, wrestling evolved, the attitude to it and the rules changed, and fights were held in special places. Later, competitions in wrestling, this ancient sport, were held in Azerbaijan in special places called zorkhana.
Representatives of the Oguz people, including girls, were skilled in horsemanship, swordsmanship and shooting. In this country, boys were not given the names until they displayed courage in fighting and won a fight. The characters of the epic "Dada Qorqud", Bamsi Bayrak and Banucicak, give their hearts to each other only after testing themselves in a race, shooting and wrestling. You can read about sporting events referred to in the legends of "Dada Qorqud" in other sources. The works of the 11th century Azerbaijani poet Xaqani Sirvani refer to "covqan", house riding, chess, fencing and other games.
Specific sports required an appropriate diet relevant in this region and for specific purposes.
Food for athletes
In old times, Azerbaijani wrestlers ate mostly meat dishes, and in most cases, young lamb. There were two reasons for that. First, meat is food rich in proteins that are able to maintain the muscle mass, and hence, a good physical shape. Another reason was the fact that in ancient times the frequent consumption of meat was a kind of a symbol of success - like an expensive telephone or a car today. Poor people could not afford meat dishes.
It is easy to note that almost all the national dishes of different countries contain minimum meat and, on the contrary, a lot of flour. Researchers have long noticed that national cuisine is always the food of the poor. In some cases, meat is replaced by products like beans in Georgia or what is left over from the animal after the meat is given to the upper class. These are numerous dishes from the heart and liver, giblets and offal, as well as heads and hooves. Surprisingly, the most common national dish in Europe is a kind of xas. And yet Azerbaijan has national dishes containing a large number of proteins, i.e. normal meat. Here we should mention hamrasi, which is not very fashionable today. This kind of soup is still found in few places, and it is characterized by the fact that it consists of almost completely protein. Its main ingredients are balls of minced lamb (kufta), green beans and eggs. It is obvious that this dish was meant not for the poor who have a difficult day, but for soldiers and pahlavans. But protein in such an amount is not so easy to digest and therefore, hamrasi contains such ingredients as vinegar and mint. The former helps to split protein and the latter helps the stomach to work.
Other similar meat dishes for athletes are piti and bozbas. Both dishes contain lamb, as well as in their classic version, chestnut, which is now replaced by far less protein-rich potato. A pahlavan could not eat dry food as sporting activities required plenty of fluids. A "correct" dolma was also good enough to power an ancient athlete. 100 grams of lamb in it accounted for only 30 grams of rice. Among other dishes suitable for athletes, we can name nar qovurma, sabzi qovurma (almost entirely comprised of lamb), cigirtma and the famous camp food of all wars and pahlavans, which became the prototype of the modern sausage - basturma.
The essence of sports nutrition
Our ancestors understood sports nutrition often better than modern nutritionists. Qatiq with garlic was always attached not only to hamrasi, but also to piti, bozbas and dolma. And this, as has long been proved, is an excellent remedy for good digestion, i.e. of the same mutton, which is fine, but still "heavy" food.
However, the role of proteins should not be overestimated. In any case, the main ingredient of the food of an athlete, both ancient and modern, is carbohydrates. The amount of protein should actually be only from 10 to 15 per cent of the daily calorie intake. Fats are also needed. If you have long and gruelling practices, the supply of energy from carbohydrates is quickly exhausted and the body begins to burn fat. Athletes, both ancient and modern, never went to compete after a hearty dinner, while wrestlers, conversely, preferred to be a little hungry.
The diet of athletes never included tea, especially before tournaments, and wine was not used at all. The former was relaxing with its tonic effect, and the latter made one lose their vigilance. Athletes always drank simple spring water, but in large quantities - from two to three litres per day.
Spices and dried fruits, the indispensable benefit of which the West is only just beginning to realize, were known and widely used since ancient times. Ginger, turmeric, cardamom and other spices were mandatory attributes of nutrition. Ginger is known not only as an anti-inflammatory remedy but also as a tonic, and in Chinese its name means "masculinity". It improves blood circulation, normalizes the muscle tone and increases physical and mental performance. Turmeric is a constant ingredient of many national dishes, has a beneficial effect on the cardiovascular system, normalizes metabolism, has wound-healing properties and fights bacteria very well.
No modern athlete would refuse a healthy and tasty snack, anciently known to us as "caraz": nuts and dried fruits. They are indispensable for those who engage in fitness as they quickly restore power. Dry fruits are a source of potassium, which is essential for the normal functioning of the cardiovascular system, they are useful for sports diet, because they contain almost no fat, but are rich in carbohydrates - fructose. These tiny "pills of health" are particularly rich in vitamins A and B. Dried fruits are rich in vitamins and mineral elements such as phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, iron, iodine, calcium and sodium.
Nuts are not just a storehouse of vitamins and useful microelements, but are also a source of protein for the growth of the muscle mass. Peanuts, for example, are called a dream for bodybuilders, as they contain a lot of protein. Nuts are very useful for mental activities, while almonds are one of the most "dietic" nuts, because they contain almost no carbohydrates, but are very rich in protein - up to 18 per cent. As you can see, the Azerbaijani traditions of nutrition are not just a rich cultural and historical heritage, but also, of course, almost a direct guide for forming a useful ration of healthy food.
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