A JOURNEY TO THE PAST

The tourist season is in full swing. The subject of holidays in Azerbaijan's regions has already been covered in a previous issue of R+. But a mere article cannot describe all the picturesque corners of the country and the unique places which should be visited both for a holiday and for getting to know the ancient history, culture and customs of the Land of Fires. So let us continue our journey to the fairy-tale places of Azerbaijan…

The "blue lake"

Ganca is Azerbaijan's second largest city, situated 375 km west of Baku in the foothills of the Lesser Caucasus, along the shores of the Gancacayi River, which splits the city in two. 

Ganca is the capital of the once Ganca Khanate, a monument of ancient culture and history going back over 2,500 years. It emerged in the form of a settlement - the people took advantage of the area's favourable geographical location along the Great Silk Road.

Legend has it that Ganca was founded in the area where a traveller, Mazyad, discovered immense treasure - pots full of gold and precious stones.

Today Ganca is rightly regarded as a city with a rich culture and a historical and natural heritage. Here you will find mountains, dense forests, ancient vineyards, beautiful lakes and rivers…

It is in this region of the country that the famous Gey-Gol Reserve is located. Historians testify that there was a catastrophic earthquake in this area in 1138 that destroyed the Kapaz Mountain. Boulders blocked the inner valleys and held back the waters of the Agsu. This formed the Seven Lakes system, the biggest of which was Lake Gey-Gol (Blue Lake).

Surrounded by the mountains of the Lesser Caucasus, the lake, at a height of 1600m above sea level, is a huge, beautiful stretch of water teeming with fish.

Any tourist visiting Ganca would be fascinated by the mausoleum and monument to the great Azerbaijani poet Nizami Gancavi, who was born and lived in this city and made an inestimable contribution to the history of world literature.

Ancient Ganca still has the look of a beautiful city with many architectural monuments. The city's main historical monument is the Sheikh Bahauddin Complex, dated 1606, which comprises an architectural-historical complex including the Djuma mosque (the mosque of Shah Abbas), Cekak-hamam (a medieval bath) and a caravanserai. 

The gates of ancient Ganca are worthy of special mention as they are a masterpiece of handicraft arts by the smith Ibrahim ibn Osman. He built these huge iron gates with ornaments and chased decorations in 1063 by order of Shavur I, ruler of the Seddadid dynasty.

In 1139 the Georgian King Demetrius I took advantage of the terrible earthquake, attacked Ganca and seized the gates as a trophy. Only one half of the gate has survived. It is built into the wall of the Gelati Monastery of Bogoroditsa near the Georgian city of Kutaisi, opposite the tomb of the Georgian King David IV. A copy of the gates has been set up at the entrance to Ganca.

Another of the main sites of the city which has been handed down to us from the centuries is the 12-metre Mausoleum of Sheikh Ibrahim, a Muslim holy place which receives pilgrims every year.

Tourists are also moved emotionally by the famous Bottle House and the many parks and picturesque lanes which are a favourite place for a stroll in the summer heat. The biggest and most beautiful of the parks is reckoned to be the "Khan Bagi" ("Khan's Garden"), which was thus named during the rule of Cavad Khan (1748-1803).

All kinds of trays, vases, tools, carved utensils and the celebrated Ganca porcelain can be bought in the many shops and souvenir outlets. All the items are hand-painted and the pictures tell us about the history and national heroes of Azerbaijan. Here you can also buy luxurious carpets, magnificent silk scarves and unique items of jewellery…

And if you love your food you must visit the local market, restaurants and cafes where you can try traditional Azerbaijani dishes.

The curative waters of Naftalan

The western region of Azerbaijan is famous for its mineral springs and its curative oil - naftalan. This unique natural substance is a most effective means for treating a number of ailments.

Some 45 km from Ganca lies the small resort of Naftalan. Treatments are carried out here in sanatoriums and pensions using naftalan oil and ointments based on it. The name of the town comes from the word "nafta" which in the ancient Medean language means "flowing" or "exuding".

Naftalan was sent via the caravan routes to Kiev Rus, Central Asia, Afghanistan, India and the Persian Gulf countries, and in the 19th century the German engineer Jaeger started production of this ointment in Germany and exported it to various countries.

Restored from the ruins

Another ancient Azerbaijani town - Samkir - also lies in this region. According to written and archaeological sources, it was founded in the fifth-sixth century near the present-day village of Muxtariat, on the banks of the Boyuk Samkir River, 20 km from modern Samkir.

During the Middle Ages this rich city, which was a major trade and handicraft centre of Persia, attracted not only merchants, but also conquerors - Arabs, Savirs, Georgians and Mongols. Consequently, it was destroyed from time to time and restored from the ruins. After one attack the people migrated and founded a new town. The remains of two ancient 17th-century fortresses - of Samxor Qala and Koroglu Qala - have been preserved in the outskirts of Samkir. The latter fortress was named in honour of Koroglu, the hero of a folk epic who became a national symbol of the heroic resistance against subjugators and oppressors. 

There are a number of archaeological sites of the bronze and early iron ages in Samkir District. There are also a number of architectural monuments of the medieval epoch. For fishermen, Samkir is an ideal place because here, on the Kura River, you will find the Yenikand Dam.

An island of antiquity

The city of Naxcivan, which is situated on the Naxcivancay River, in the western part of the Lesser Caucasus, is rightly regarded as one of the most ancient settlements in Azerbaijan. It emerged in the sixth century BC as one of the cities of Caucasian Albania. 

The Naxcivan Autonomous Republic is a really unique place. It is separated from Azerbaijan's main territory and borders Iran, Armenia and Turkey. This enclave was formed as a result of Armenia's aggressive policy in 1918-1920, when it seized primordial Azerbaijani lands and annexed Zangezur. Incidentally, many Azerbaijanis lived in these parts before the 1990s. During Soviet times there was a rail link between Naxcivan and the rest of the country which ran through Azerbaijani territory - the Megri Corridor. But after a new war in 1988-1994 and Armenia's occupation of Nagornyy Karabakh and seven Azerbaijani regions, the whole Azerbaijani population was banished from these areas and the rail link was disrupted. As a result, since 1991 Naxcivan has been blockaded and it can be reached by only two ways - by air or by road via Iran…

Naxcivan is surrounded by the mountain ranges of Zangezur and Daralayaz. The southern foothills of the Zangezur Range are washed by the biggest river in Naxcivan - the Araz, which flows through Turkey, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Iran. There are about 400 rivers and their tributaries here, also the beautiful Batabat Lake with its so-called "floating islands".

Many people are probably familiar with mineral water brand names such as Sirab, Badamli, Daridaq and Vayhir. They all derive from the rich land of Naxcivan. In addition, arsenic, salt, sulphur, copper and other minerals have been extracted here since ancient times. Historians all agree that it is hard to find another place like ancient Naxcivan that has made such a unique contribution to the history of civilization. The word "Naxcivan" comes from "Nuxcixan", which is linked with the Prophet Noah (Nuxa [in Azeri]).

During archaeological excavations in this area traces of the Great Flood mentioned in the Koran and the Bible have been discovered.

Naxcivan is rich in medieval architectural monuments. These are the 11th-century Yusuf ibn Kuseyir Mausoleum (popularly known as Atababa) and the 12th-century Momina Xatun (Atabay's Dome). And not far from Naxcivan, on the border with Iran, lies the city of Culfa. Here, on the exposed peak of a mountain in the middle of a broad plain, rises the ancient fortress of Alinca-Kala (11th-13th century), one of the strongest defensive constructions of its time. The Gaur-Qala Fortress (Sahtaxti, 2,000 BC), the unique Xudafarin bridges across the Araz and the Culfa caravanserai (13th century) are by no means a complete list of the historical monuments which evoke real interest among travellers from all over the world.

While you're in the Naxcivan Autonomous Republic, it's worth paying a visit to Ordubad, the second most important town in the Naxcivan region, which extends in the form of a magnificent amphitheatre along the slopes of the gorge of the Ordubadcay River. Ordubad has been known since the 12th century. Its architectural and historical monuments, centuries-old plane trees, picturesque orchards and silks have brought Ordubad worldwide renown. The 12th-century Cuma mosque - a medieval building with arc niches on the fa?ade - stands in the town centre.

Ordubad has preserved its monuments of antiquity, its ancient lay-out and a significant number of its old buildings.

Located 60 km to the south of Ordubad is Mount Gamigaya. The local people will tell you a legend which says that Noah collided with the mountain during the Great Flood and named it "Kamci".

Gamigaya is the second largest place for rock carvings - the fine arts of the Bronze Age (3,000 - 2,000 BC) - after Qobustan. Visitors will also be interested in the rich cuisine of this ancient region, which is based on dishes which you will not find in any other country. 

The burning heat of Lankaran

Returning to the subject of the uniqueness of Azerbaijan's nature, one must mention Lankaran District, which is situated in the south-east, almost on the border with Iran. Lankaran is one of the most colourful and beautiful cities in the country with a sub-tropical climate.

Settlements on what is now Lankaran have been known since the Neolithic Age. Three hundred years ago, on the site where the city is now situated, there was a bog covered with beds of rushes. On the banks of the Lankarancay River, near the sea, stood a lighthouse and a fortress. The city's original name was Langarkunan, which meant "anchorage", i.e. a port.

Lankaran was once a part of Caucasian Albania, and in 1743 it became the centre of the Talis Khanate. It is not surprising that part of the region's population is made up of ethnic Talis, who have preserved their ancient culture, traditions and customs. Smithing, the production of silk and articles from copper, the manufacture of jewellery, dressmaking, carpet weaving, wickerwork and stone, wood and metal carving have been developed in Lankaran since ancient times.

When it was the capital of the Talis Khanate, Lankaran played an important part in trade with Iran, Central Asia, India and Russia. The wonderful climate, the benign Caspian, beautiful sandy beaches, truly luxurious natural landscapes, dense forests, roaring rivers, thermal springs, ancient history and an abundance of cultural sites and elegant architecture cannot fail to impress real lovers of travel.

The region includes three tourist zones - the coastal (Caspian), the Haftoni and Narimanabad zones.

Lankaran's coastline is unique. Only here can you encounter the black sand that possesses amazing curative properties. The Narimanabad zone includes a large part of the Sara Peninsula. On one side it is washed by the waters of the Caspian, and on the other it is covered by the forests of the Qizilagac reserve. The Hirkan National Park, which is of considerable interest to lovers of eco-tourism, is also in this area.

The Haftoni Zone is well known as an historical site, as well as an opportunity to take an intensive healthy course based on the water from the healing springs of Istisu ("hot water"), which are situated in the Haftoni Woods.

Istisu are thermal waters and are close in substance to the springs of the resort of Karlovy Vary. The healing properties of this water have been well known since ancient times. It is capable of healing a whole range of ailments, from rheumatism, liver and kidney diseases to contusions.

In this bountiful region you will be able to find Chinese date plum, pineapple guava and citrus fruits. The subtropical climate is also ideal for growing rice, vines and tobacco. But special attention is given to the production of tea and that is why you will see a huge samovar at the entrance to Lankaran.

Lankaran is abundant in historical sites, among which the remains of the 18th-century Lankaran Fortress deserves special mention. It was one of the most important defensive structures of the Talis Khanate. In the fortress stood the city bazaar, on the site of which were built two mosques which later became one of the most visited holy places for pilgrims.

The most colourful architectural site in Lankaran is Mir Ahmad Khan's Palace. Built in 1913, it became the first multi-storey building in the single-storey city.

Close to the city stands a cult place of pilgrimage for thousands of Muslims - Hanega, an elegant complex of mausoleums and mosques.

The region is famed for its appetizing fish dishes, as well as game, which has a special process of preparation. It is quite impossible to list all the dishes of national cuisine that are offered here for tourists - there are over 20 types of pilaw alone.

We should mention one other dish - lavangi, which is a symbol of Azerbaijan's southern region. The secret of lavangi lies in the preparation of an appetizing filling for chicken or fish. This filling is a real find for lovers of nuts and highly seasoned dishes…

A little more south of Lankaran are the majestic Talis Mountains. Here you can relax in beautiful woods to the sound of babbling brooks of the purest water.

Happy holidays!