PECULIARITIES OF NATIONAL CUISINE

The wealth that Azerbaijan has acquired from its geographic location is reflected in its national cuisine. There are specialists who can prove scientifically, taking account of various factors, why dishes like dolma or gurza are elements of Azerbaijani cuisine. Our R+ correspondent spoke about this and many other things to the Director of the Centre of Azerbaijani National Cuisine, Tahir Amiraslanov.

- You have headed the Centre of Azerbaijani National Cuisine for 16 years and are President of the Association of Azerbaijani National Cuisine. How many diplomas have you won at the festivals and competitions you have attended during these years?

- It is difficult to say how many exactly. The total weight of the medals in 16 years is 16 kg. I am happy to have represented with credit the history and culture of Azerbaijan in many countries. As a result of this work, international culinary organizations know us and take account of my remarks and opinion. Our nation and people have an ancient history and rich potential, and my personal task is to reveal this potential and bring our ancient culture to the attention of the people of the world. I am constantly engaged in scientific research in the culinary sphere, and every new finding gives me fresh power for further work. At the same time, I do not regard my work as a service to the people or as self-sacrifice. I am just doing my favourite job. For example, the fact that the piece of metal which you throw into the saucepan while cooking fisincan reacts with acid, as a result of which active iron, useful for the blood, is precipitated, was an interesting finding for me as well. Another fact: exposing mendacious statements by the Armenians and frustrating their attempts to present our dishes and cultural values as their own at various festivals, gives me great moral satisfaction. Why should I present this as my service to the nation?! In this case, my personal interest coincides with that of the state - the job I am enjoying is also useful for the state.

- What can you say about the specific steps taken in response to Armenian encroachment on Azerbaijani cuisine?

- In essence, the misappropriation of our culture, cuisine and other values by Armenians goes back to the distant past. I personally opposed this when I worked in Ganca. As for today, every time we participate in international events, the promotion of our national cuisine is an attack against those who are trying to steal it from us. At the same time, we do not restrict ourselves just to participation in various events. We are doing everything in our power. For example, in 2005, the EU prepared a book called "World Cuisine" and we were asked to prepare a chapter dedicated to Azerbaijani cuisine. During our work, we also familiarized ourselves with the Armenian chapter where we encountered recipes from our national cuisine. I told them that these dishes belong to Azerbaijani cuisine and the publishers took them out. I was even asked to edit the Armenian chapter of the book "Guide" which was being prepared for publication. Recently, we received an invitation to participate in an event to be held in New Zealand. However, we were forced to turn it down due to material difficulties. After that, we received information about the forthcoming festival of Eurasian states, and it became known that Armenians will take our place there. I sent a protest in this regard to the World Culinary Institute and explained the aggressive nature of the Armenians and their state, quoting cases when they presented Azerbaijani cuisine as Armenian at various festivals. On the basis of this protest, Armenia was taken off the list of participants in this event.

- The February edition of R+ published an article dedicated to the restaurant business in Azerbaijan. It also contained your opinion about it. You said that not only the restaurant business, but also public catering in Azerbaijan does not meet international standards, requirements and norms, while services are far from professional. What do you think is the reason for this situation?

- I think the main reason is that there are a great number of dilettantes in this sphere. Today anyone who has enough money can open a restaurant or another public catering service in Azerbaijan without the relevant control. If there are four or five cooks who have capital, knowledge and experience, they lack the financial possibilities to organize this business. I should cite one example. The cave paintings in Qobustan depict she-goats divided into several parts with clear lines. Scientific research has shown that these lines demonstrate the correct division of the body of this animal, which shows that there was a cuisine culture in Azerbaijan 37,000 years ago. Based on this fact, our homeland can be called the cradle of world cuisine. When we demonstrated these paintings in Russian and Ukrainian restaurants, their cooks immediately said that these lines are lines for cutting the body, because they learn this and, in practice, they keep strictly to these rules. In our restaurants no-one could determine their meaning. This means that the cooks that serve us have no idea about the rules for cutting an animal body. The most annoying thing is that not only are they not thinking of going to Qobustan and learning the history of our cuisine, they are not even interested in learning world practice. The cooks that bring gold medals to Azerbaijan today are sidelined from the restaurant business. Restaurateurs do not allow their cooks to take part in international festivals for fear of damaging their business and losing their profits. In other countries, a lot of money is spent on training and sending cooks to festivals. This is the right approach. If someone is making money by using people's knowledge and physical potential, they should also make a sacrifice.

- You are also vice-president of the Russian Culinary Association…

- Yes, I have held this position for 15 years. This is the only case in the world when a citizen of one country holds the post of vice-president of the culinary association of another state. I can say that I try to use this chance to defend the interests of my country. Ties established in Russia give us new opportunities to propagate our own cuisine abroad.

- What are the obstacles and problems in your work?

- If someone is doing a job that can even slightly improve the image of his native country, others have to support them. Unfortunately, instead of support, we often encounter artificial obstacles created by various officials.

Cookery is a fact that proves the ancient history of our people and culture. From this point of view, its propaganda is the most communicable form of non-violent struggle in this direction. For this reason, we must step up this work. For example, on the basis of Heydar Aliyev's decision dated 26 December 2000 (No 596), a plan of measures to see in the 21st century was drawn up. One of the articles of this plan provides for the following: "To create a chain of Azerbaijani restaurants around the world with the support of the private sector, to keep and promote Azerbaijani cuisine as national historical property, to study regional cuisines and demonstrate them in Baku." I think it is time to actively implement this decision. Moreover, the activity of the association is also held up by financial difficulties. From 1996, we have been unable to participate in the world culinary competitions held every four years. When we last participated, we beat the USA, though the allowance of 2,000 dollars did not allow us to demonstrate our potential in full. About 2 million dollars were spent on the event in the USA in that year…

- What plans have remained unfulfilled?

- I think it is necessary to set up an Academy of Caucasian Cuisine. It should be set up in Azerbaijan. The ancient history of our culture and cuisine gives us this right. Although I have repeatedly raised this issue, there is still no reaction, unfortunately. Second, a special regime of protection should be applied to Azerbaijani cuisine. I raised this issue in 2000, and there is even a special decision on it. However, various organizations are still putting a brake on this issue, and the decision has not been carried out. In Japan, this work was launched in 2004, and now the Japanese culinary police are famous all over the world. In Portugal, they raised this issue after we did; however, they are already doing some work in this sphere. The third issue that I would like to touch on is Culinary Day. Since 1991, I have been trying to establish a Culinary Day in Azerbaijan, but I have not been able to achieve anything yet. We made this proposal to international organizations, which welcomed it. This year World Culinary Day will be marked for the fourth time on 20 October. Another important issue is the setting up of a culinary museum in Azerbaijan. If our notorious neighbours set up such a museum tomorrow and start demonstrating their cuisine there, we will have to protest against this. Wouldn't it be better if we set up such a museum ourselves and defended our property? Apart from all this, there are many other small and big plans, and I want to believe that I will be able to implement at least half of my plans.