SHEKI: THROUGH A PRISM OF A COLOR GLASS

The universal exceptional value of the monument "The Historical Center of Sheki with the Palace of Sheki Khans" was recognized at the 41st session of the UNESCO World Heritage Committee convention held in Krakow. The Azerbaijani side was given time to solve all issues associated with the security and maintenance of the monument.

The city of Sheki is located on the southern slope of the Great Caucasus Mountains. Its history is rooted in more than two millennia ago. Sheki stands out with a number of features. A headscarf of Azerbaijani women, kelaghai, listed on UNESCO's intangible heritage list, is manufactured only in this city. This ancient city is also associated with special types of sweets: baklava from rice flour, bamiya, halva "girma badam", and doom-doom. However, we will talk about shebeke and an unsurpassed master who has glorified this art to the whole world.

Walking in the quarters of Sheki

The residents do not know the streets by names. To get to the right place, you need to name the quarter in which the street located. Then you will get there without any problems. No extra information about the quarter is necessary.

If you walk from the Big Caravanserai or go up by bus number 11, then, before reaching the Palace of Sheki khans, you should turn a little to the right and, after passing the local history museum and the Craftsmen's House, you will find the workshop of Usta (master, Ed.) Tofig.

Here does he create the samples of ancient shebeke art. Slices of wood and glass cut into small pieces are connected to each other without glue and nails. He makes various windows, doors, partitions, figures, and souvenirs from the glass of red, yellow, dark blue, turquoise-green flowers and the pieces of wood.

Continuity... Tofig Rasulov was attached to this art by his father Ashraf. His father was taught by Tofig’s grandfather. Today, two of his sons, Ilgar and Vugar, work in the workshop next door. The interest of young people towards shebeke contributed to the introduction of new technologies. Here is what Tofig says: “Earlier we had to make the sketches on paper. But now the guys are drawing the models on computer. Ilgar was graduated from the architectural faculty of the University of Architecture and Construction, and thanks to his knowledge, we can continue the traditions of our fathers and grandfathers.”

Today it is difficult to imagine any sphere without computer technology, virtual design, electrical appliances, and machinery. However, the art of shebeke appeared not yesterday. Usta Tofig answers my question:

“One must be a talented artist, an architect, if you wish, to be a master of shebeke. One must know mathematics well, especially geometry and drawing. This work loves precision. If you make even a slight displacement during the assembly, you will fail. Therefore, back in the days, the masters were assembling standard panels, doors, and windows. They have mainly used 8- and 12-millimeter ornaments. Now Ilgar and Vugar are trying to create new forms. For the First European Games, we produced a new national shebeke, and for the International Chess Olympiad held in Baku last year, we made the figures of the king, queen and horse from shebeke.”

The masters create unique examples of shebeke in their workshop, where the mosaic glass and wood are organically intertwined. In Sheki, where traditions of the architecture of the Caucasian Albania have lived for centuries, shebeke is widely used in the construction of houses and other buildings. All the windows are the pearls of the 18^th century - the Palace of Sheki Khans is made in the style of shebek. It is interesting that in the restoration work, which was first carried out in the palace during the mid-fifties of the last century, shebeke was entrusted to Tofig's father, Usta Ashraf. The next restoration was carried out in 2002-2004, this time by Tofig Rasulov, Ashraf’s son. Today, Usta Tofig and his team are making small-sized souvenirs from shebeke, which is also popular among the tourists visiting the city.

Made in Sheki

“Sheki is the only place in Azerbaijan where the masters make shebeke from stained glass. Nevertheless, thanks to my work, I have traveled the whole world and taken part in dozens of international exhibitions of arts and crafts. I do not even remember the number of exhibitions where my works have been exhibited,” says Rasulov.

Master says that the best material for shebeke is beech. The older the tree, the better. For shebeke, he buys 5mm wooden planks. For the next ten days, they sort of get "steamed". This is to dry out the juice, which is available as a part of the boards. The drying is then carried out for another one month at a certain temperature. If the board is not sufficiently dried, it will not become darker, and the product made of such wood will not last long. Finally, a completely dried wooden panel is applied a layer of drying oil, which contains wax. Usta Tofig says that thanks to this technology the tree can live up to a hundred years. Shebeke must be assembled from wood of this quality. I wonder what kind of glass should be for shebeke.

“Previously, colored glass in Sheki was imported from Venice. The glass used in the khan's palace is murano glass. Now we get glass from Russia. The thickness of Italian glass 1 mm, and Russian - 3 mm. The thinner the glass, the easier it is to make delicate parts from it.”

Here they are, the hands of Usta Tofig and his sons. You cannot see a single scratch or cut on them. They are real masters. When you take the glass on your hands and bring it to the light to see its shades, you can see how red glass gets different shades - from the color of oceanic coral to the color of Burgundy Bordeaux wine. The beauty of shebeke depends on the refraction of sunlight in its glasses. My attention is attracted by the shebek that stands by the wall. 

How long did it take to make this window?

It all depends on the ornament. We have used 14 thousand pieces of glass and wood for a square meter of this window. It took about six months to get it done. A small souvenir can be made in 5-6 days. 

Do you have many orders?

We have a saying: a master starves until the dinnertime...

The residents do not know the streets by names in Sheki. But whoever you ask the address of Usta Tofig, you will be directed to his workshop. Perhaps it is not surprising  that from here - from the height of his workshop Sheki is seen as in the palm of your hand. One cannot forget Sheki, as it is impossible to forget the souvenirs made by Tofig Rusalov and his sons.