WHEN DREAMS COME TRUE

My first encounter with Monaco, or rather Monte Carlo, dates back to my childhood in the late seventies during the Soviet era. Radio Monte Carlo was my introduction, and its broadcasts somehow found their way to the Absheron dachas during summer evenings. In the USSR, accessing contemporary foreign pop music was a rarity, but Radio Monte Carlo occasionally offered a glimpse into that world, free from interference. The jingles of that radio station still echo in my memory, and I couldn't help but wonder, "What is this distant land where fortunate inhabitants can enjoy these songs daily without disruption?"

Decades later, I finally found answers to these and many other questions. My dream of visiting this pint-sized nation came true in 2024.

The Jewel of the Mediterranean

Nestled along the Mediterranean coast near Nice, the Principality of Monaco spans a mere 2.02 square kilometres. Yet, it's globally renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, idyllic resort climate, and the opulent lifestyle of its millionaire residents. Home to prestigious Formula 1 races and the iconic Monte Carlo Casino, Monaco offers a unique blend of luxury and excitement.

Today, tourism, gambling, and luxury real estate development are the pillars of Monaco's thriving economy. Surprisingly, even media coverage of the royal family contributes to its revenue. With the highest density of millionaires and billionaires per capita, Monaco's tax-friendly environment, devoid of income, luxury, or capital taxes, attracts the global elite. Despite the absence of agricultural land, the nation manages to export food, industrial raw materials, and capital, among other things.

The Monegasques, the indigenous inhabitants of Monaco, number around 8,000, constituting a little over 20% of the population. The demographic is predominantly French (approximately 30%) followed by Italians (less than 20%), which is unsurprising given Monaco's geographical location within France and its proximity to Italy.

Monte Carlo owes its name and origins to Prince Charles III, who rescued the kingdom from financial ruin in 1865. To combat the economic crisis, he built a casino on an untouched promontory, which remains operational and profitable today. Since 1911, Monaco has been a de facto constitutional monarchy, currently under the reign of Prince Albert II, a descendant of the Grimaldi family and the son of Prince Rainier III and Princess Grace.

The Gateway to Monaco: Nice Cote d'Azur

The distinction between Monaco and Monte Carlo is often a source of confusion. Monaco is the compact capital of the Principality of Monaco, while Monte Carlo, renowned for its iconic casino, is a district within the capital. Due to spatial constraints, Monaco lacks an airport, but a helipad provides regular connections to the nearby Nice Cote d'Azur International Airport. Located just 22 kilometres away, Nice serves as the primary gateway for tourists visiting the enchanting Principality of Monaco, though access via Italy is also possible. For those seeking a different path, flying to Genoa Airport in Italy and continuing by train, bus, or car is a viable option. Another route involves taking a train to the Italian border towns of San Remo or Ventimiglia, and then transferring to another train, bus, or car for the remaining 25-30 kilometres to Monaco.

Many tourists prefer the route from Nice, France. Upon arriving at the Nice Côte d'Azur Airport, you can board the express bus number 110, which departs hourly throughout the day. The journey spans approximately 33 kilometres and takes less than an hour. Alternatively, you can take a tram to central Nice and continue to Monaco by bus or train.

For budget-conscious travelers, buses (Nos. 602 and 607) departing every 20-25 minutes from Nice harbour offer an affordable option at around 3 euros. The fastest method is the train, which leaves from Nice Riquier railway station and arrives at Monte Carlo, Monaco's sole railway station, in about 20 minutes. Train tickets typically cost between 5-6 euros.

Although taxi rides from Nice to Monaco provide picturesque views of the Côte d'Azur, they come with a higher price tag, ranging from 95 to 150 euros.

Ideal Times to Visit Monaco

To fully experience Monaco's beach resort charm, July and August are popular months, with air temperatures reaching 28°C and the sea warming to 23°C. However, late spring and early autumn are ideal for leisurely exploration, social events, and milder temperatures.

Despite its small size, Monaco boasts numerous attractions. Begin with the "Old Town" of Monaco-Ville, situated on a hill that can be ascended in 10-15 minutes or reached by public buses or a tourist train-carriage. The Princely Palace, founded in 1191, offers breathtaking sea views and a picturesque harbour with yachts. Visitors can photograph the changing of the guard ceremony daily at 11:55 AM. Nearby, the Condamine neighbourhood features a vegetable market and cafés, while Port Hercule square offers a variety of restaurants and shops. The Moneghetti neighbourhood provides a glimpse into traditional Monaco with its historic villas, lush greenery, and playgrounds for children.

The Princely Palace, the official residence of the Prince of Monaco, stands on the ruins of a Genoese fortress and has been owned by the Grimaldi family since 1297. While the palace is only open to visitors in the summer, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary is accessible year-round, free of charge.

Finally, the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco (€14) presents 6,500 square metres of marine life, including sharks, turtles, Mediterranean and tropical fish, and a coral reef that has thrived in these waters since 1989.

Then it is worth visiting the Condamine neighbourhood with its vegetable market and cafés. Also nearby is the Port Hercule square with its many eateries, restaurants and shops. Also nearby is the Moneghetti neighbourhood with historic villas, lots of greenery and playgrounds for children. This is a great opportunity to learn about traditional Monaco and to hear the Monegasque dialect, similar to the dialects spoken in Liguria, a few kilometres away.

A visit to Monaco would be incomplete without experiencing the iconic Casino Monte Carlo, a symbol of elegance and luxury. Situated near the Port Hercule, the casino's square features a majestic fountain, palm trees, and an array of luxury cars. Designed by the same architect responsible for the Paris Opera House, the casino boasts an opulent interior adorned with gold, marble, sculptures, and frescoes. Famous films like the 007 movies Never Say Never and Golden Eye, as well as Ocean's Twelve, have been shot here. During the day, you can explore the casino as a museum with a purchased ticket, and there's no need to follow a dress code. Interestingly, only guests of Monaco can gamble in the casino, as citizens are prohibited from doing so.

Adjacent to the casino, you'll find the Monte Carlo Opera House, also known as the Opera Garnier, named after architect Charles Garnier. Completed in just 8.5 months and designed to seat 524 people, the theatre's supporting columns were engineered by Gustave Eiffel, the creator of the Eiffel Tower. The casino complex is also home to the Alley of Light gallery (Les Allées lumières de Monaco), an upscale shopping centre.

For a taste of the socialite life, visit Cafe de Paris, one of the oldest (established in 1868) and most popular establishments in Monaco. Located on the square in front of the casino, the café features wax figures of notable Monegasque subjects. You can savour a coffee (3-5 euros) or hot chocolate (5.50 euros) while enjoying the refined atmosphere. If you're in the mood for a light meal, expect to pay upwards of 30 euros for the simplest dishes.

Monaco's cuisine showcases the finest of French and Italian traditional dishes, including fish and shellfish, spaghetti with pesto sauce, crepes suzette, cheese, nicoise salad (with anchovies), oysters, and delectable desserts. Be sure to try Barbagiuan, a local Monegasque specialty resembling small fried ravioli filled with pumpkin, cottage cheese, and basil. For dessert, indulge in fugas—orange and anise-flavored buns sprinkled with almonds, granulated sugar, and pine nuts.

Additional Attractions and Tips

Monaco boasts several other attractions, including the Exotic Garden (Princess Grace's rose garden) and the old and new national museums of Monaco. A notable feature is the motorway connecting Monaco to Nice, the unofficial capital of the French Riviera. This unique roadway runs along the sea coast at an altitude of 200 meters above sea level.

Before visiting Monaco, consider your accommodation options. While there are around 30 hotels in Monte Carlo, the cost of staying within the Principality can be considerable. The cheapest options start at 150 euros per night, with the average cost ranging between 300-400 euros per night for two people. As a result, many travel agencies recommend booking hotels in nearby Nice, where you can find accommodation for as low as 70-80 euros per night and reach Monaco in just 30 minutes.

To secure the best deals and ensure availability, book your accommodation several months in advance, whether you choose to stay in Nice or Monaco. Regardless of your choice, you're guaranteed an unforgettable experience.

Have a nice one!