TOURING THE PRINCES' ISLANDS

Istanbul, with its plethora of attractions and vibrant ambience, distinctive minarets, confined byways, and profound historical legacy, attracts millions of tourists annually. While many visitors from Azerbaijan are aware of the Princes' Islands, situated a mere 35 kilometres from the urban bustle of the city, not all are inclined to prioritize a visit. Nevertheless, there are those who, when in Istanbul, consider it their obligation to undertake a brief excursion to this archipelago of nine islands. Büyükada, the largest of the Princes' Islands, provides a distinctive opportunity to immerse oneself in the ambience of history, tranquillity and natural splendour.

A Glimpse into the Past

The Princes' Islands are a collection of nine small islets situated in the Sea of Marmara. Despite the archipelago's total population of approximately 20,000, the number of people residing there increases to almost half a million during the summer season. The islands derive their name from their historical association with the Byzantine princes, who made them a favoured destination for their holidays. To be more precise, the islands (adalar – Turkish) were the location of exile for nobles who had been disgraced, including princes and princesses, during the Byzantine Empire. The islands are particularly popular with the Turkish population, as well as with tourists. In Byzantine times, Büyükada was known as Megalo (Greek for 'big'), while the island's Greek name is Prinkipo (Greek for 'prince').

In the ancient period, the islands constituted a unified religious centre, encompassing numerous monasteries, some of which were utilised as a summer imperial residence. This may be the reason why they were frequently referred to as ‘Papaz Adaları’, which translates as ‘Islands of the Priests’.

It is accurate to conclude that Büyükada is the largest of the Princes' Islands. One of the most notable attractions for tourists is the residence of Lev Trotsky, where the renowned revolutionary and statesman spent a considerable portion of his life in exile from 1929 onwards. Furthermore, Büyükada is home to numerous Ottoman villas and mansions that have been meticulously preserved to this day. A perambulation through the narrow streets of the island allows visitors to become immersed in the ambience of the erstwhile Istanbul way of life, thereby facilitating the imagination of how life was conducted in the past.

A Scenic Journey to Büyükada

Access to Büyükada Island is possible via ferry from Istanbul, which makes it an affordable option for those seeking a brief respite from the urban environment. The ferry offers a convenient and scenic mode of transportation, allowing passengers to appreciate the scenery of Istanbul and the surrounding islands while traversing the Sea of Marmara. The vapourettas themselves are double-decker, spacious, and comfortable, offering seating both inside, in the halls, and outdoors, along the sides. The journey affords visitors the opportunity to capture images of notable aesthetic appeal.

The ferries embark from a number of ports in Istanbul, including Eminönü, Kabataş, and Kadıköy. The timetables and ticket prices are subject to variation depending on the time of year. However, it is typical for flights to commence in the morning and conclude in the late afternoon, with departures occurring every 30 to 60 minutes. The duration of the journey to Büyükada is dependent on the route and traffic conditions on the Bosphorus, with an estimated time of 1-1.5 hours.

It is possible to purchase ferry tickets at the departure points themselves, although there is a slight wait, or alternatively, in advance via the internet and mobile applications. The current price of a single ticket is 80 Turkish lira (equivalent to approximately ₼4.2 or €2.3).

Should one desire a cup of tea (30TL) or other refreshment, one may inquire with the on-board tea waiters. During the course of the journey, local vendors organize performances featuring the sale of small household goods, which many passengers find appealing. Such items as plastic citrus juicers or vegetable cutters are typically available for purchase at affordable prices, with the former costing approximately 20TL and the latter 100TL.

The vaporettes make a scheduled stop at Heybeliada Island, where they remain for approximately five to ten minutes, before continuing onward to their final destination of Büyükada.

It is also noteworthy that Büyükada is not solely a destination for tourists. In fact, there are residents who live on the islands and commute to Istanbul daily, returning in the evening.

Enjoying the Beaches of Marmama

Upon arrival in Büyükada, visitors may find themselves immediately approached by tour operators offering holidays on several local beaches. The island is renowned for its pristine beaches and breathtaking vistas of the Marmara Sea. Büyükada is an optimal destination for those seeking to appreciate the serene and picturesque natural environment, whether through leisurely perambulation along the coastline or repose on the sandy beaches.

It is important to note, however, that the majority of the island's official beaches are designed with couples or groups of women in mind. It is to this demographic that the invitation is typically extended.

The cost is reasonable, with prices ranging from 10 to 20 euros per person. The cost of the excursion includes the boat transfer to the beach and the use of changing rooms, showers, sunbeds with umbrellas on the beach itself. It is simply a matter of arranging a return time to the pier, which is typically synchronised with the schedule of steamers to Istanbul.

The sandy beaches of Nakibey and Yörük Ali, which overlook the Sea of Marmara, are considered to be the most comfortable. Furthermore, the latter location offers the convenience of a hotel situated in close proximity, along with an array of dining options, including cafés and restaurants. Additionally, the island features several secluded, free beaches with rocky terrain, which are primarily frequented by the local youth population.

Additionally, the island comprises several secluded, free but rocky beaches, which are frequented by the local youth population. It is possible to rent sunbeds and umbrellas, and to make use of the showers. Furthermore, upon proceeding from the pier towards the coastal boulevard (in the vicinity of the renowned mermaid statue), one can observe individuals engaged in sunbathing and bathing activities. It should be noted, however, that the boulevard lacks the facilities one would expect to find in such a location, including changing rooms, toilets and showers.

Phaeton or Bicycle?

The Princes' Islands are distinguished by the absence of motor vehicles, with phaetons and bicycles representing the primary modes of transportation. This constitutes a historical excursion, undertaken at a time when the automobile was not yet in existence. A variety of bicycle rental facilities are available on the island, and many Europeans favour this mode of transportation due to its affordability, convenience, and contribution to a healthy lifestyle. Those of an advanced age tend to favour walking, while younger tourists often opt for riding the distinctive phaetons, which are an integral part of the local culture.

A variety of bicycle rental options are available on the island. As of July 2024, the standard rental fee is 100 lira per hour. A significant proportion of the European population opts for this mode of transport, citing its affordability, convenience and contribution to a healthy lifestyle. It is observed that older tourists tend to favour walking and, on occasion, riding exotic phaetons, which can be considered an integral aspect of the local culture. A series of specialised excursions have been developed, comprising two distinct routes: a five-kilometre tour, designated the 'Küçük Tur' (literally, the 'Small Tour'), and a twelve-kilometre tour, designated the ' Büyük Tur' (literally, the 'Big Tour').

For those with a penchant for cycling and hiking, Büyükada is an optimal destination. Such routes afford visitors the opportunity to gain a unique insight into the local way of life, exploring the island's narrow streets and scenic paths. The island has a total area of 5.36 square kilometres and a population of approximately 9,000. A one-hour phaeton ride allows visitors to traverse the entire island. One might also inquire as to the amount of time required to traverse the island on foot. This can be calculated by the individual. The time required to complete the journey will be contingent upon the velocity of the traveller's pace. Many tourists, however, prefer to walk at a more leisurely pace. However, visitors should be prepared for a considerable amount of walking, as the island is characterised by undulating terrain and pine-covered mountains, offering spectacular vistas of Büyükada, the Sea of Marmara and neighbouring islands.

The island of Büyükada is home to a number of places of worship, including nine Greek Orthodox churches, as well as Armenian, Latin and a synagogue. The monastery of St. George, which dates from the Middle Ages, is one of the most renowned. A café situated in the vicinity of one of the monasteries offers the opportunity to sample wine produced by the monks according to traditional recipes.

One of the island's most notable attractions is the Hamidiye Mosque, constructed by Sultan Abdul Hamid II.

Culinary Delights

Furthermore, Büyükada boasts a plethora of dining establishments, including restaurants and cafés, where one can partake in the sampling of local specialities and unique dishes. Of particular note are the intimate fish restaurants, which serve freshly caught fish.

The marina café offers a selection of locally sourced seafood, including the islands' popular bream (cipura) and perch (levrek), prepared on a grill for 360TL. Similarly, the mackerel (istavrit) is priced at 340TL, while a portion of salmon costs 600TL. Depending on the season, one may sample a variety of fish delicacies, including mullet (tekir), scorpion fish (iskorpit şiş), bluefish (lüfer), palamut (palamut), halibut (kalkan), monkfish (fener), and other varieties. In addition to fish dolma (8TL) and fish koftas, the menu offers a variety of other seafood dishes, including squid dolma (550TL), shrimp casserole (350TL), grilled squid (350TL) and perch cutlets (360TL). In other words, the entire fish assortment is available in a multitude of preparations, including fried, steamed, stuffed, marinated, grilled, and incorporated into soups and salads. This establishment is a veritable paradise for those with a penchant for gourmet cuisine and seafood.

In addition to seafood, traditional dishes are also available, including meat kofta (340TL), chicken kebab (280TL), and kebab assortment (700TL), among others.

It would be remiss to omit mention of the local delicacy, the ispanaklı kek. It is a type of sweet spinach pie that has come to represent the island. The price of a balik-ekmek, a local specialty, is 150-170TL, while a glass of Turkish tea costs 30TL.

Accommodation

The atmosphere of peace and life in Büyükada is frequently so appealing to tourists that some elect to remain on the island for at least one night.

In principle, the island offers a variety of accommodation options, ranging from simple guesthouses to more luxurious hotels with additional facilities. While it was previously challenging for tourists to identify suitable accommodation, the introduction of numerous new hotels and apartments has made it easier to find suitable lodging in recent years. Despite the hotel issue being a significant challenge in the archipelago, the optimal conditions can be found in Büyükada. The following list comprises the most notable hotels. Furthermore, these are not new edifices; rather, they are spacious villas and residences that have been repurposed as hotels. The hotels are decorated in a traditional style, eschewing the Euro-renovation that is prevalent in many other establishments. Instead, they adhere to a more classical aesthetic. Consequently, staying in a renovated villa is a unique experience. However, the cost is not as inexpensive as it may initially appear. The cost of a room for two individuals begins at 55 euros (equivalent to ₼100-110). Nevertheless, it is advisable to make reservations well in advance, as it is not straightforward to secure affordable accommodation during the peak season.

At the present time, there are numerous hotels of varying categories available for reservation through the booking systems for Büyükada. One of the most renowned and exclusive establishments is the Splendid Palace, which is distinguishable by its silver domes and red shutters on the windows, visible from the ferry. A one-night stay in the most basic room for two people, inclusive of breakfast, costs approximately 200 euros.

It is important to note that the cost of accommodation in Büyükada can vary significantly depending on the season and the level of comfort offered. Typically, prices are higher during the summer months and on public holidays.

A visit to Büyükada provides an opportunity to escape the urban environment and engage with the island's natural splendour. A visit to the island, whether for a single day or an extended period, offers a plethora of experiences and memories that are sure to leave a lasting impression. One may immerse oneself in the island's history, enjoy its natural beauty, and soak up the authentic atmosphere of Büyükada, thereby making the trip unforgettable.