FASHION DESIGNER'S MISSION

Fashion designer Zumrud Mirzaliyeva has established herself as one of Azerbaijan’s most recognizable designers. Her style strikes a delicate balance between national motifs and modern trends, blending refined femininity with comfort. It’s no wonder her creations are favoured by public figures, cultural icons, and artists alike. Yet, behind the glamour lies a journey marked by hard work, the pursuit of a unique signature, and bold experimentation.

Zumrud Mirzaliyeva entered the fashion world in 1997, and since then, her collections have graced runways in Kazakhstan, Russia, Turkmenistan, and beyond. The designer skilfully incorporates elements of national style into her work, seamlessly merging them with contemporary aesthetics. Her passion for film has also shaped her creativity; for many years, Zumrud worked as a costume designer at a film studio, later channelling that experience into her distinctive collections.

Today, she produces several collections each year, experimenting with denim and knitwear while remaining loyal to her preferred materials—crepe and silk. Defying fashion norms, the designer avoids using fur and leather on principle, proving that beauty doesn’t require sacrifice.

Last November, her Silk Sense collection made a powerful impression—bold combinations of denim, silk, and macramé elements captivated both critics and fans of the brand. But we wanted to discuss more than just fashion with Zumrud Mirzaliyeva. After all, behind every outfit and pattern lies a story, emotions, and experiences. How are her collections created? What inspires her? What drives her forward? This interview delves into creativity, the search for harmony, and the inner world of the artist.

"Zumrud Khanim, how did your work as a designer begin? How long have you been doing it?"

"I did not become a designer by chance; it all started with a childhood dream. Any available space—notebooks, napkins, even school desks—became my canvas. I drew everywhere and always, until I realized it wasn’t just a hobby; it was my calling. Step by step, I moved toward my goal. First, I studied at the Faculty of Fine Arts and Design at the Moscow Open Social University (MOSU), where I gained a solid foundation. Then, I attended the Faculty of Graphic Arts at the Azerbaijan State Academy of Arts, which deepened my understanding of art and refined my skills. After that, everything happened quickly—in 1997, I presented my work to the public for the first time. At the time, I thought it was just the beginning; now, looking back, I realize an entire era has passed! If all goes well, in 2027 I’ll celebrate 30 years in this profession. How time flies! Over the years, there have been highs and lows, but what matters most is the constant inspiration and love for my work that keep me moving forward."

"Who has been (or is) a role model, teacher, or idol in your work, and why?"

"'Do not make an idol of yourself' is a phrase that serves as a warning. But can one progress without bright examples to follow? Every creator has figures whose work inspires them, sparks creativity, and encourages them to carve their own path.

"For me, such legends include Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, and Cristobal Balenciaga. These individuals didn’t just create brands—they transformed fashion into art, philosophy, and a way of life. Their work embodies courage, innovation, zeitgeist, and unwavering dedication.

"I admire their achievements but don’t seek to replicate them. Inspiration isn’t about imitation; it’s about finding your own voice and letting ideas flow through you to create something unique. Fashion is about new interpretations—a fresh narrative told through style."

"Do you have any favourite models or clients—artists you find particularly interesting to collaborate with?"

"I consider myself fortunate; among my clients and models, there’s no one I could call 'unlovable.' Each person carries a story, a character, a unique energy. For me, it’s essential to find the key that unlocks their full potential. This is perhaps the true magic of creativity: when something deeper than a professional relationship develops between a designer and the person wearing their clothes. Many of the people I’ve worked with have become genuine friends. Working with celebrities creates a completely different dynamic. Dressing someone is one thing; creating an image that highlights their individuality and inner world is another. When an artist places their complete trust in you—when you’re open to ideas and willing to experiment—something extraordinary emerges! I’ve had the privilege of working with remarkable personalities like Turkish actress Aydan Şener, Tunzala Aghayeva, and Russian theatre and film actress Lyubov Tolkalina, among others. For me, this experience was not only a professional challenge but also an opportunity to present them in a new light through my style. Ultimately, fashion isn’t just about the clothes—it’s about the stories they tell."

"How do you define success in a design career?"

"I don’t want to sound materialistic, but success for a designer goes beyond applause at shows and admiring glances from the audience. While these are gratifying, fashion is also a business. Beautiful clothing shouldn’t just dazzle on the runway—it should find a place in people’s wardrobes and become part of their lives.

"For me, true success is when my collections are worn—when my garments make people feel special—and when my brand continues to grow and evolve. Fashion is about balancing creativity with recognition and commercial viability. I take pride in my ability to harmonize these elements while turning dreams into reality."

"Is there any particular piece from your collection that holds special significance for you?"

"I can’t choose just one favourite; to me, it’s like picking a single page from an important book. Every dress, every costume, every detail contributes to the story I’m telling. In the cut, the fabric’s texture, and the smallest fitting details, there’s a piece of my soul.

"Fashion isn’t just about clothing; it’s about emotions, character—an inner world expressed through lines, silhouettes, and colours. When I design a collection, I think not only about the styles but also about the feelings they’ll evoke—how the fabric moves or reflects light, how someone wearing the outfit will change their posture or mood. It’s impossible to single out one piece because each one is born from love, attention, and a desire for perfection. Together, they form a whole that tells my fashion story."

"Being a fashion designer is inherently creative but comes with ups and downs. How do you navigate success and recover from setbacks?"

"Ups and downs are part of any journey. Sometimes you’re at your peak—motivated and elated by success—while other times it feels like everything is falling apart, and you have to rebuild yourself from scratch. But I believe both triumphs and failures are lessons that make us stronger. Success pushes us forward, filling us with dreams and inspiring even greater courage in our creations. Failures, on the other hand, teach us to pause, reflect, and rediscover the strength to move on. No matter the circumstances, there’s one remedy that soothes all worries—the embrace of my son, Arif. In his sincere eyes and unwavering faith in me, I’m reminded that life’s most important things aren’t awards or titles but love, family, and those closest to us who give us strength and inspiration—the harmony without which no great endeavour can thrive."

"How would you describe the average Azerbaijani man or woman? Can we discuss style, taste, or beauty in this context?"

"I firmly believe style, taste, and beauty go beyond standards. Who is the 'average' man or woman? This concept is merely a convention because everyone has unique traits and energies. I love seeing how our women and men are increasingly focusing on style, grooming, and elegance. Fashion is becoming less about clothing and more about self-expression. However, one principle remains crucial: while it’s tempting to chase trends, it’s far more valuable not to lose yourself in them. True style isn’t dictated by trends but by what makes you special. Beauty begins with confidence. If change is needed, let it be for the better—fostering harmony, the courage to be yourself, and the inner freedom that makes someone truly stylish."

"It’s often said that style requires substantial financial resources. In my non-professional opinion, fashion demands solid funding, but style doesn’t need extravagant spending: a striking scarf, a thoughtful colour palette, a refined accessory—and voilà, you’re stylish! Am I correct?"

"I completely agree: fashion isn’t cheap. Collections, fabrics, intricate patterns, and meticulous craftsmanship all require significant investment. Style, however, is a different story—it can’t be measured by price tags or limited to boutique brands. Style is about your inner sense of self, how you wear your clothes, and the confidence you exude.

"Sometimes, just one detail—a dramatic scarf, a sophisticated accessory, or an effective colour scheme—is enough to elevate an outfit into something vibrant, complete, and elegant. Proportion, harmony, and the ability to highlight individuality are key.

"I always say: style isn’t about money; it’s about taste, confidence, and the courage to be authentic! You can look impeccable in simple clothes if you emphasize their strengths. After all, true beauty lies in the details."

"Baku has been known for its fashionistas both before and after the Soviet era. How does our capital look today? Are we continuing this trend? Some say Tbilisi is more fashionable, stylish, and extravagant..."

"Baku has long been celebrated for its fashionable individuals—and fortunately, this tradition continues! A walk through the city centre shows that style here isn’t just about following trends; it’s a lifestyle. People with impeccable taste, daring combinations, and unexpected details showcase Baku’s evolving fashion scene while maintaining their individuality.

"Of course, times change: access to global trends, industry advancements, and societal shifts all contribute to enriching Baku’s unique aesthetic.

"As for comparisons with Tbilisi... I think such comparisons are misleading! Each city has its own rhythm, character, and fashion narrative. Baku has never sought to imitate; it cultivates originality. Here, traditions blend seamlessly with modernity, Eastern charm coexists with cutting-edge trends, and there’s a sense of ease in experimentation. Baku isn’t just a dot on the global fashion map—it’s a living canvas reflecting the cultural vibrancy, lifestyle, and character of its people."

"What is your ultimate dream as a fashion designer?"

"My dream goes beyond success or recognition. I want global markets to proudly say: Made in Azerbaijan! I want people around the world to recognize Azerbaijani fashion as unique, inspiring, and worthy of attention. For me, this isn’t just an aspiration—it’s a mission.

"Azerbaijan is rich in culture, traditions, and a unique perspective on aesthetics. It’s not just a country—it’s a history expressed through ornaments, colours, forms, and materials. My goal is to ensure that every collection meets global standards while embodying our national spirit—the Oriental charm that makes our creations extraordinary.

"I firmly believe that fashion is a language that tells stories about our homeland, its history, and its talents. That’s why I’m committed to ensuring Azerbaijani design gains recognition, empowering our craftsmen to produce exceptional creations that delight, inspire, and resonate with people worldwide!"