13 May 2024

Monday, 20:13

CONSTANTLY CAPTIVATING

Despite its apparent similarity, Georgia can surprise and inspire genuine admiration

Author:

01.07.2023

It reminded me the famous phrase authored by Belinsky: "Do you love Georgia as I do?".

However, Georgia will always be only as your eyes can see it and the emotions you will feel as soon as you see it from above. This miniscule piece of land has a special magic. There is a reason that Georgians proudly call their homeland a gift from the Almighty, who wanted to keep it for Himself but listened to a request of the Virgin Mary. So, if you want to see heaven on earth, then you must come here - the land of legends, tradition and ancient culture, amazing hospitality and proud spirit. The natives of the country prefer to call their homeland Sakartvelo. They believe that one day the historical ancestral name will become part of the world geography. Rest assured, almost all tours here begin with guides mentioning that Georgians call themselves Kartvels, hence the name of this land, Sakartvelo, meaning the country of Kartvels. But whatever the name of the territory situated at the crosspoint of Europe and Asia, Georgia undoubtedly remains a heaven on earth! You don't believe it? Then simply pick a destination and head out to meet the country. Georgia can indeed surprise, becoming a true delight for your eyes and soul. Wherever you go, you will come across fascinating corners, as well as architectural and historical evidence. As long as you plan your route appropriately and tune in, even long journeys will benefit you with interesting insights...

 

Lake Madataf and the Batonis-Tsikhe Castle

This road journey can give you an unforgettable experience. At every turn, there are locations to capture the beauty of nature to satisfy the most discerning social media consumers. Just keep your eyes focused and the surrounding scenery will reveal the most beneficial footage angle. Even at the highest point of the Gombori Pass (1,800m) with a magnificent view of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range, where you can see Georgian pastorals and take a lungful of fresh air. Or along the serpentine mountain ranges with woodland and fast-flowing rivers. And if you pinned the Lake Madataf (2,108m) in your itinerary, be prepared to catch the touching point of sky and water with your camera. So even travelling along the Georgian roads is a separate tourist destination in and on itself.

As we all know, every road leads to a certain geographical location, which is most likely related to a historical event in time for a serious traveller. There are many such places scattered around Sakartvelo. Many and various, but all linked to the names of people without whom it is impossible to imagine modern Georgia. Very few Georgians have an equal ability to present their cultural heritage. For example, if you are in Telavi, you must visit the Batonis-Tsikhe Castle (17th-18th cc. CE), which means the Lord's Castle. Reconstructed in 2018, the complex is interesting because of its architectural layout reminiscent of the Persian Safavid period. It has been reconstructed several times, until it became the residence of Herakles II, who was born and died here. The fence of the castle, the two royal chapels and baths, and the still active school are surrounded by a monumental five-metre high wall with large round corner towers. The Telavi History Museum with its interesting architectural design is also located within the compound where the permanent exhibition, art gallery and temporary exhibitions are organically combined with the cultural ties of the past. We cannot go further without mentioning Tsinandali, once the cultural and intellectual centre of Georgia established by the founder of Georgian Romanticism, Alexandre Chavchavadze.

The House Museum of the Chavchavadze family still preserves the memory of representatives of this famous family and its importance thanks to various exhibitions, concerts, and literary events. The history of the Chavchavadze family is interesting not only because of its prominent and influential names, but also because of the twists and turns its members had to go through: the first meeting of Nino Chavchavadze and Alexander Griboyedov, the raid of Shamil's detachment, which made the daughter of David Chavchavadze to hide in a hollow of a linden tree still standing there, the ransom paid for his wife and children. The house hosted Alexander Dumas, pere and allegedly Alexander Pushkin. Exhibits in the museum are interesting because all of them were donated by descendants of Chavchavadze living abroad. One of the interesting facts about the family is the marital bonds of representatives of this influential family, with almost all of its members having left indelible marks on Georgian and European history.

The Tsinandali complex is more than just a house-museum. It is a historic wine cellar that houses Alexander Chavchavadze's collection of over 15,000 bottles, the oldest of which dates back to 1814. This is an incredible ornamental garden with green labyrinths and an alley of love, generating a unique quiet charm with its amazing atmosphere of aristocratism, elegance and peace. It is also the ruins of a temple, which once witnessed the marriage of the beautiful Nino and her chosen one. This makes one experience the power of love that this amazing woman kept until her last breath...

 

Signaghi

Georgia is undoubtedly an unfading song of love. After all, there is a town in the historical region of Kakheti called Kiziki, which is a true symbol of such love. Legend has it that once the people living here were so lost in sin and did nothing but evil, that God decided to punish them and ordered one of His angels to destroy the town. The angel named Signaghi disobeyed the order and entered each and every house, leaving a piece of his heart in it, filling everyone with unearthly love, until he disappeared when there was nothing else of him to leave to the dwellers. When the Lord saw that there was no more unrepentant evil heart in the town, He forgave the inhabitants, raised the angel back to heaven and ordered him to forever keep goodness and love in the town, which now bears his name, Signaghi. This is why today marriages can be concluded here at any time of the day or night, and the resulting certificate is fully acknowledged anywhere in the world, unless you confirm it with an apostille. The town hosts one of the youngest museums in Georgia, with Niko Pirosmani's paintings on display. A 2.5km long fortress wall encircles the town like a stone necklace. With 28 watchtowers along the perimeter and 5 entrances, the fortress is truly impressive. The town is small; its red tiled roofs give it a special charm and the view of the Alazani Valley. The Caucasus Mountains above it create a fairy-tale feeling. By the way, Signaghi was built on the site of a destroyed 18th century fortress. It occupies almost 40 hectares of land. Remarkable architectural pieces including the 19th-century houses on terraces joined by steep, winding streets represent, together with the rest of the buildings, the southern Italian style of classicism with Georgian elements, which give a special flavour to the urban environment. It blends in with the colourful piece of nature that opens up before your eyes once you climb one of the fortress towers. And there it is, the vastness of the Alazani Valley.

 

Vardzia

As to cities and legends, we should also mention Vardzia located in Samtskhe-Javakheti. At that time, this unique cave monastery complex was just under construction. This happened long before Tamar was recognised as a great queen. Back then, as a little girl, she accompanied her father, Tsar George III, on his hunting trips. But the inquisitive and curious mind of young Tamar was not satisfied. So she set out to explore the nearby caves. But she went so far that she got lost. When the adults, who were too keen on hunting, discovered that the child was missing, they rushed to find her, combing all around and shouting her name. Suddenly, one of the men from the king's retinue heard a voice coming from a cave: "I'm here, uncle!" The girl was found and the place was named the same as she called for help: "ak var dzia". Tamar often visited Vardzia afterwards. A lifetime fresco with images of King George III and the unmarried Tamara can be seen in the main temple of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. The caves could once hold up to 50,000 people, if necessary. Since they were invisible when looking from the nearby roads, it was possible to hide in them from the attacks of bellicose neighbours. Three underground passages connecting with the monastery complex allowed detachments to attack the enemy quite unexpectedly. At that time, the complex had eight floors with streets, tunnels and stairs passed by monasteries, temples, fortresses, baths, libraries, houses and other buildings. There were more than 600 rooms connected by passages, which extended up to 800m along the mountain and up to 50m in depth. In the 13th century, Samtskhe suffered a major earthquake, which chipped off a layer of rock up to 15m in height. Afterwards the monastery was restored and rebuilt. One can feel the scope of human labour and persistence when one just enters the cave complex. Vardzia leaves an indelible impression, especially since only three monks and a novice live in the monastery where access to outsiders is forbidden. Church services are still going on, but you can only get inside the church by chance. It's a well worth experience though, when you pause in front of frescos dating back to the period before the 13th century. Here you can taste the uniquely pure water from a spring called the Tears of Queen Tamar. We yet to know where the water comes from and where it goes, as the level in the small natural stone bowl it is collected in is almost unchanged.

Vardzia is sort of a modern quest with a touch of history, with its stables and refectory, pharmacy and wine cellar, multi-room and multi-level caves and small flats. Even in its truncated form, the cave complex is breathtaking just to hear the stories of the rise and fall, decline and rebirth of the place.

 

The Akhaltsikhe Fortress

Georgia's entire history is a chain of prosperity under great rulers and devastating raids. Akhaltsikhe saw the invasion of Tamerlane and the Mongol khan Yaqub. Each of the newcomers tried their best to leave their mark on the conquered territories. A striking evidence of this is the Akhaltsikhe Fortress, also known as the Rabat Fortress, located in the historical province of Meskheti. Reliable sources claim that the first real fortress here appeared in the 12th century. For 300 years, it has been destroyed and restored consequentially. In 1578, Akhaltsikhe was conquered by the Ottoman troops also thanks to the proximity of the Turkish border. Five decades later the city became the centre of Akhaltsikhe Pashalik and began to play a leading role in the region. After restoration, there are now the Ahmediye Mosque and an Orthodox Church, Jakeli ancestral castle and historical museum, madrasah and pasha's tomb, mosque minaret and baths, citadel and amphitheatre – all covering a territory of 7 hectares. In the neighbourhood, there is a Russian-style pavilion with a fountain and a Moorish gallery with openwork weaves that add an unusual lightness to the surrounding harshness of the fortress buildings. Divided into upper (historical) and lower (modern) sections, the fortress has once again become the cultural centre of the city, attracting many visitors with its history.

 

Alaverdi Monastery

For Georgia, the attitude to faith is the basis of Georgian self-awareness, without any preconditions for fanaticism. It is one of the first countries to embrace Christianity. The obligatory toast at any Georgian dinner party is "For Homeland, Mothers and God". Therefore, there are many churches, monasteries, cathedrals and other places of worship in the country. One of such holy places is the Alaverdi Cathedral and Monastery, which is one of the most famous and largest churches in Georgia. It dates back to the sixth century, when Joseph of Alaverdi built a small hermitage where people would come to listen to the story of the hermit monk about faith, virtues and vices. His tomb is still located in the northern part of the modern cathedral built in the 11th century. Since then the cathedral has survived many invasions, conquests, earthquakes and destruction. Today Alaverdi is a functioning monastery and a complex of buildings. One of them is the Grape Museum, with over 500 varieties of grapes, including some rare and once lost species.

 

Shumi Tourist Complex

For any Georgian, a grapevine means a high degree of respect in the first place. Making wine is a philosophy here. Without wine, one cannot even imagine a traditional Georgian feast. This is why it is simply unthinkable to ignore various wineries. So, if you are visiting Georgia, be prepared not only to taste different types of wine. It is much more interesting to see how the vine lives. For example, in the tourist complex Shumi, you can try on the famous appearance of Adriano Chelentano from The Taming of the Scoundrel (1980) and see a replica of the oldest (350 years old) grapevine. The original one grows in another village, is not subject to relocation and still bears fruit. Or imagine the almost 8km long Kvarelian wine tunnel driven through a rocky massif, with ideal conditions for storing and ageing wine. The cellar holds 26,000 bottles of different varieties.

 

Chobareti village

Remarkably, gastronomic feasts have been a special cultural component for Georgia for centuries. One can find tasty and completely different everywhere throughout the country. Even the familiar khachapuri will be different yet excellent in different regions. If you are ready to risk it, then by all means drop a visit to the village of Chobareti (about 2,000m AGL) in the Caucasus Mountains. Here you can enjoy authentic environment with incredible views of the mountain scenery, wood blazing in an open hearth, where you can cook khinkali in a kettle, taste and watch the production of the unique cheese teneli. By the way, eco- and agro-tourism can also provide you with unforgettable impressions. If you have never cooked traditional Georgian dishes yourself, then feel free to join the available master classes.

 

Diamond Bridge

Georgia has long established itself as one of the most popular tourist destinations. As a result, the ever-expanding range of offerings makes one visit the place repeatedly, each time with a different experience. For example, a beer spa. Yes, there are beer baths too! The small brewery offers you a choice of several types of beer made according to an old family recipe and, as the popular song goes, "becoming a beautiful dolphin". So Georgia can always surprise and offer something which you have not explored yet.

One of such amazing attractions is a walk across the Diamond Bridge, the tallest suspension bridge in the world. Located in the Svaneti Mountains at over 2,000 metres, the bridge was built in 2022 and has become an instant hit with visitors and residents alike. For those who crave the ultimate adrenaline rush, there are zipline bikes and swings over the precipice. And those who just want to tickle their nerves can simply walk over the suspension bridge to its core - a diamond, with facets emphasizing the futurism of the entire construction. The sense of unreality of what is happening is fuelled by the almost 300-metre deep Dashbashi Canyon, which can be seen underfoot through the glass sections of the bridge. If you make it to the middle, you can also enjoy a cup of coffee in a local cafe flavoured with a sense of immersion in the surrounding scenery, seen through the walls and the floor. The canyon is not only visible from the bridge, but you can also descend into its depths to the Khrami River with a beautiful waterfall nearby. And you can once again get in touch with the very beauty of unspoilt nature of Georgia, a land that God kept for himself, but gave as a gift to the Kartvelians...

We would like to thank the Georgian National Tourism Administration and its guide Marika Bogveradze for their assistance.



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