WHAT IS LIFE WORTH WITHOUT A TEA-HOUSE?
Why is tea drunk with sugar in Azerbaijan?
Author: Arif HUSEYNOV Baku
Every nation has its ritual drink. In Azerbaijan it is tea. Azerbaijanis drink tea everywhere - at home, on a visit, at festivities, weddings and funeral wakes. Not a single event passes without tea-drinking. The key attributes of the process are a samovar and an armudu (pear-shaped) glass. This glass is very easy to hold and, besides, the narrower middle part slows cooling.
In fact, until recently it was believed that the samovar was invented by the Russians, as indicated by its very name. Historical sources, however, suggest that it was invented by ancient Turks, the Huns, who called it 'sumavar'. In ancient Turkic this meant "a pot for water". Back in the 5th century the Huns built wooden houses with ovens, stone baths etc. During military marches to Western Europe, they cooked food and boiled water in 'sumavars', much to the surprise of the Europeans.
There are numerous tea-houses serving fragrant tea in all residential areas of Azerbaijan. These are places where people get together not just to have tea but also to chat. Classical tea-houses are a kind of men's club, where they have leisured discussions about the past, problems and news.
In any Azerbaijani family guests are treated first to tea. Dinners are also crowned with tea-drinking. Even those who have stopped by for just a moment will be treated to tea.
There is a tradition in Azerbaijan to drink tea while biting on sugar. Before putting sugar in the mouth, it is lightly dipped into the tea. This is an ancient tradition. This is how Azerbaijani rulers checked whether the tea served to them had been poisoned. Poisons in those days were organic and reacted immediately to sugar. The tea would either become cloudy or start "boiling", while the exposed malefactor would be summarily killed.
Tea is also an important attribute of marriage brokerage. Matchmakers usually beat around the bush, hinting at the real reason for their visit. Normally the host family will be aware of the visit and if, following the "negotiations", they treat the matchmakers to sweet tea, it means they are happy to wed their daughter. In case of a refusal, tea is also served, but it is not sweetened. This ritual brings some delicacy to the refusal and helps preserve good relations between the families. It is understood that the visitors simply stopped by for tea.
For tea to be fragrant, one needs to know the infusion technique. One old tea-maker shared his secret before death: "When infusing tea, spare no dried tea".
Tea is more or less popular throughout the world. According to one legend, when South Chinese Emperor Sen Nung (3rd millennium B.C.) was drinking some hot water outside his palace, some leaves fell into his glass. The fragrance and taste they gave to the water impressed the emperor so much that he ordered that more be gathered. Then he issued an order that the leaves should be used throughout the country. Historical records suggest that although tea was used back in 220-280, its cultivation only began in 350.
Chinese philosophers said that tea is better than wine because it doesn't make one drunk but, on the contrary, adds vigour and strengthens the constitution. They preferred tea even to water because it didn't contain any infection. Rulers and religious figures also used tea as a healing drink, helping to eliminate fatigue and improve vision and strength. Tea became particularly popular in the early 5th century. It was valued so highly that emperors presented their magnates with tea as a reward. The honour of tea-drinking was, at the time, only bestowed on those who held senior positions in society. In the 10th century, tea became the Chinese national drink, while trade in tea gained momentum.
Tea was imported to Europe by the Portuguese and Dutch in the 16-18th centuries. The Dutch even adopted the tradition of drinking tea after dinner. A little later, tea crossed the Atlantic Ocean to reach New Amsterdam, Guyana.
In 1664, merchants of the English East-Indian company brought two pounds of tea as a present for the King, who was very impressed by the drink. Initially tea was subjected to such a high tax that only very wealthy people could afford it. It was drunk in cafes and, when there was no small change, customers were given tea coupons, which were accepted in shops as a means of payment. Later, it became a popular drink in many nations.
In 1793, Chinese tea seeds were imported to India and cultivation began there. Tea cultivation became widespread on Java, Sumatra and in Vietnam in the first half of the 19th century, and in Africa and South America in the second half of the century. Today tea-growing is also developed in Australia.
In Azerbaijan, the first tea bushes were planted by plant-breeder M. O. Novoselov, in Lankaran in 1896. These tea plantations were destroyed after the October revolution. Their restoration only commenced in 1928-1929, while in 1932-1934 industrial plantations were established. In 1937, the first Azerbaijani tea was put on sale.
Mankind has been taking advantage of the favourable impact of tea on human health from time immemorial. The greatest minds of the Orient viewed tea as a means of strengthening the body and improving the spirit. The ancient Chinese described tea as the "flames of life". In the 17th century, court doctors of the Japanese imperial palace indicated that tea cleansed the blood, the retina, liver and spleen, removed fatigue and enlivened the muscles.
Great Russian writer Lev Tolstoy said: "I drink a lot of tea because I can't live without it. Tea leads to the expression of thoughts glowing deep inside my soul."
Tea tones one up, strengthens bodily functions and allays thirst. It helps the body overcome hunger when there is no opportunity to eat. For this reason, geologists, travellers and sailors always have supplies of tea. Tea is an essential item for many of the world's armies.
Tea contains over 130 useful substances. The dark and sometimes red-brown colour and mouth-sticking bitter taste of infused tea are due to the tannin, which constitutes 16 per cent of tea. Its unique aroma comes from essential oils (0.007%). Tannin substances also include catechins. They increase the elasticity of blood vessels, which is very important in the prevention and even treatment of arthrosclerosis. Tea has a soothing effect on people with cardiovascular problems, removes spasms, thus improving blood circulation and blood pressure. In the case of hypertension, catechins reduce blood pressure, remove headaches and rumbling in the ears.
The alkaloids contained in infused tea, caffeine and theobromine, raise the body's tone. The best forms of the product contain up to 4 per cent. The caffeine in tea is better than that in coffee grains. It has a good effect on the contraction of the heart muscle and thus strengthens blood pressure. Caffeine also has a soothing effect on the blood vessels in the brain. Thus someone who has had a glass of well-infused tea is sure to be in good spirits.
Tea is called the elixir of life. It is good for those suffering from renal problems, (acute and chronic nephritis); it eliminates general weakness and lack of appetite.
People suffering from a cold have tea to intensify intracellular exchange, thus facilitating resistance to the virus. At the same time, it causes sweating and is a stimulating remedy.
Tea is rich in vitamins. Vitamin B2 improves skin elasticity and makes it more beautiful.
Tea also contains fluoride, which prevents tooth decay. However, the love many people have for tea with a dessert considerably undermines its merits.
Tea hampers the development of many diseases, because people who drink it regularly have a stable level of amino acids and vitamins. It is rich in iron, calcium, copper, fluorine and manganese.
Tea also has a soothing impact on the nervous system. Regular tea drinking provides an improved supply of oxygen to the brain, stimulating brain activity and improving enunciation.
The drink has the capacity to remove harmful substances from the body, including heavy metals; it improves the workings of the stomach, kidneys and, partly, the liver.
Tea can be without oxidation (green), semi-oxidised (white, yellow, Ulun tea - Black Dragon), oxidised (red) and very oxidised (black).
Green tea (In central Asia this is also called kok-tea, i.e. blue tea) is not oxidised. Latest research shows that this tea can help resist cancer and protect people against cardiovascular diseases and Parkinson's disease. Those drinking green tea on a regular basis have low levels of cholesterol and are 40 per cent less like to suffer from cardiac arrest. The US Center of Histological research has established that green tea prevents arterial sclerosis. The Chinese, who consumer green tea regularly, have high concentrations of polyphenol, a prophylactic against cancer. Experiments have shown that green tea contains more anti-oxidants than other types of tea. To strengthen the impact of tea's healing qualities, it is recommended that it be drunk without sugar or milk. Not only does green tea increase the tone, it also normalizes digestion, stabilizes blood pressure and prevents increases in the sugar content of blood.
Scientists from the Arizona University have established that drinking black tea with lemon will reduce the likelihood of skin cancer by 70 per cent.
Tea is rich in many substances which prolong life. Tea-leaves contain about 300 ingredients (including protein, oils, over 10 vitamins, as well as tea phenol, theine and lipidic sugar), which is why it feeds the organism, regulates physiological processes and has a soothing effect on the body. Tea is especially good for middle-aged and elderly people. Vitamins J, E, D, nicotinic acid and iodine extend life, and phenols absorb and remove radioactive substances. For this reason, tea is an indispensible drink in the modern environment.
Tea contains an element important for pregnant and breast-feeding women - zinc. The tannin contained in it destroys many harmful bacteria, prevents stomatitis, sore-throats, enteritis and other intestinal infections.
Tea facilitates blood formation in the body. It contains substances neutralizing harmful radiation. Therefore, by drinking tea in front of a working TV, man protects himself from radiation to some extent.
The presence of such alkaloids as caffeine, theophyllin and theobromine prevent the disruption of the acid-base balance of blood. Tea is easily digested, thus forming quantities of substances for the timely neutralization of acid waste in the blood.
Tea is a great cooler, too. After all, just one cup of hot tea can reduce skin temperature by 1-2°, thus giving a cooling effect.
Every people, region and even family has its tea-making and drinking traditions. The Japanese in the East and the English in the West are famous for their tea ceremonies. The Japanese tea-drinking ritual is very complex. It follows a special scenario using special crockery. The ceremony is mainly conducted at "tea-houses".
For the English, tea-drinking at home is not just a habit but more of a communication process. they have tea after breakfast (7-9 o'clock), after lunch (1:00) and in the evening (at 5-6). In some families, the drinking of tea in the evening replaces dinner. Dessert is served with the tea. Tea-drinking is a tradition with Scottish families.
What else can affect the taste and fragrance of tea besides its type and quality? Of course, the water! The Chinese say that the water from mountain springs is wonderful. They think river water is of medium quality, while water from wells is the worst.
Also quite important is the way the water is boiled. A thousand years ago the Chinese marked 16 stages of water boiling. Those who appreciate tea-drinking have three stages of boiling. At the first stage, the air-bubbles appear on the walls of the pot and begin rising to the surface. At the second stage, the rapidly increasing number of bubbles concentrates on the surface of water, but this process doesn't last long. This water is considered the ultimate stage for tea infusion. At the third stage, the water boils with bubbles. This water is not good for infusing tea and is even considered bad. To infuse green tea, water is heated to 50-60° С. It is wrong to infuse tea with water boiled even slightly earlier.
A stale brew loses its colour and fragrance. The vitamins in it lose their vitality, while the volume of caffeine increases, which excites the nerve and cardiovascular systems.
The poet was therefore right in saying:
"Have some fragrant tea when sick,
Tea will cure a thousand diseases!"
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