"DON'T LOOK FOR IT ELSEWHERE..."

The city of Quba is situated on the banks of the Qudyalcay river on the north-western slopes of the Greater Caucasus Ridge, at an altitude of 616 meters above sea level.  It is a 168 kilometre drive from Baku on the Baku-Derbent motorway.  There are more than 100 rivers and rivulets here and the water in most of them is pure and drinkable.  The best known are Qudyalcay, Aqcay, Qaracay, Valvalcay and so on.  Quba, which in the past was the capital of the eponymous khanate, is today the tourist centre of Azerbaijan's northern region.

Quba as a place name

The locality is mentioned in ancient Albanian and Arabic sources and in the works of European geographers.  Arabs wrote that the first mosque built by the Prophet Muhammad near Mecca was called Quba.  11th century Arab geographer Ibn Hagweah reports the erection of the Bab-Firuzqubad castle by Anushirvan, ruler of Azerbaijan.  It is thought that the name referred to Quba.  Quba is among the Azerbaijani cities listed in the Geographic Dictionary of the 12th century Arab scholar Hamawi.

The origin of the name is possibly related to the name of the Persian shah Qubad, who built a castle in the area in the 6th century.

Prominent linguist Firidun bay Kocarli (1863-1920) maintained that the name of the city was derived from the word "qubbe" -- the dome of Nadir Shah's tent.

There is a theory that the city's name was Qubbe until the 10th century.  Scholars who deny an Arabic origin for the place name claim that it is Turkic and comes from the name of an ancient Turkic tribe.  Azerbaijani geographer and traveller Haci Zeynalabdin Sirvani wrote:  "Qubbe is a city in Sirvan.  Rumours attribute breathtaking beauty to the surroundings.  It is three day's journey from Samaxi.  The air is pleasant there.  In antiquity, one Arab tribe moved there and settled in the area.  Sixali khan's father, Fatali xan, and his ancestors, were rulers of Quba."

The Quba khanate

Archaeological excavations conducted in the region indicated that the city was founded in the 4th century.  By the late 17th century, Quba had become a major trading centre, by 1735, thanks to Huseynali khan's efforts, it was a beautiful city and later - the capital of the eponymous khanate.  Although some grand buildings of the period survive to this day, not only the khan's residence, but also the graves of the ruling dynasty, have been lost.  One of the most prominent men of Quba was Fatali khan.

Fatali khan (1736-1789)

During Fatali khan's rule (1758-1789), the influence of the Quba khanate increased considerably.  Striving to unite the whole of North Azerbaijan under his rule and to resist aggressors, Fatali Khan urged neighbouring feudal khanates to join efforts.  Although Fatali khan managed to unite the Derbent, Baku, Samaxi, Salyan and Ganca khanates from 1759-1771, he failed to realise his dream of a united Azerbaijan.  After his death, the Quba khanate lost its former power and importance and, with accession to Russia in 1806, it became a county under the Derbent Government in 1840 and the Baku Government in 1860.

Abbasgulu aga Bakixanov (1794-1847)

Abbasgulu aga Bakixanov was the first Azerbaijani military interpreter, military diplomat, officer in the Russian Army, prominent historian, man of letters, and encyclopaedist.  He grew up in the village of Amsar in the Quba region.

In 1819, Bakixanov arrived in Tiflis at General Yermolov's invitation and worked for 26 years as a translator from eastern languages in the Main Caucasus Military Directorate.  Then he left to travel around the Near East and died during the Hajj.

He was the author of five historical and literary works of which the best known is Golestane Eram.  The book, which was written in 1841 in Persian and then translated into Russian by the author, covers the history of Azerbaijan from antiquity until the signing of the Gulistan peace treaty (1813).  However, the tsarist regime banned the patriotic work.

Historical and natural monuments

There are more than 140 monuments in Quba.  Of these, 70 are natural.  Locals call these monuments, which appeared as a result of natural disasters, "natural wonders."  There are more than 60 archaeological monuments, most of which date back to between the 4th and 17th centuries.  There are usually no monuments to attract tourists in district centre towns.  But Quba is an exception.  And a walk around the former capital of a khanate will take you to some of the historical monuments.

The arch bridge

This is also sometimes called the Gudyalcay bridge.  It is the only survivor of the seven bridges which existed in the Quba region in from the 17-19th centuries.  The longest of them was built in 1894 - the design was Aleksander III's - to consolidate Russia's military presence in the Caucasus.  Today the arched bridge, which is open only to pedestrians, offers a scenic view of the city.

Domed baths

The baths building was built of red brick in the 19th century.  It is a building with a rectangular floor plan and is also known as Suhur Hammam.  The building has six rooms, two doors and six windows.  Until 1985 it was used for its intended purpose.  Now this pearl of eastern architecture is a historical monument.  Alexandre Dumas visited the baths in 1851 and, 150 years later, his great-grandson also visited the building.

Sakina Xanim's mosque

The peculiarity of the 19th-century mosque is its female name.  Abbasqulu aga Bakixanov's wife built it in memory of her husband.  The mosque, a rectangular building with a single room and a height of 27 metres, was built of fired brick between 1847 and1854.

Cuma mosque

This is also called Came.  Featuring rich stonework, the mosque was built in 1802 under the sponsorship of Qazi Ismayil effendi.  It is one of the oldest religious centres, not only in Quba, but across the whole of north-west Azerbaijan.  The mosque and attached madrasa functioned till 1924.  It was closed in the Soviet period and the madrasa and minaret were destroyed.  Following the restoration of Azerbaijan's independence, the new 50-metre-high minaret was built with support of the Turkish religious affairs directorate.

Ethnic composition

Quba is a multi-ethnic town.  Azerbaijanis, who are of Turkic origin, Lezgi, Tat, Jews and representatives of other ethnic groups live in the city, and they all preserve their languages, customs, traditions, faiths and culture.

Krasnaya Sloboda

Inhabited by Jews.  Locals also call it the "Red Village."  It is situated on the outskirts of the city, on the right bank of the Gudyalcay river on the road to Qusar District.  In the past, the area was called Kulgat and the modern name has its own interesting history.  The village in which Jews settled was initially called Zhidovskaya Sloboda, and from the 1860 and1870s - Yevreyskaya Sloboda.  When the Bolsheviks came to power in 1920, it was renamed Krasnaya Sloboda.  The residents were Jews who called themselves "dzhugur."  They are also called Mountain Jews.  They speak Hebrew, Azerbaijani and Russian.  The village has 13 synagogues.  Today, the Jewish population of Krasnaya Sloboda is 4,000-5,000.

It should be mentioned that they were resettled in Quba by Huseyinali khan and Fatali khan.  They were settled in the area during Nadir Shah's rule (1736-1747).  When Nadir shah seized Quba, the Jews who arrived with him were settled between the villages of Qaladuz and Kupcal.  Jewish elders went to Huseyinali khan's palace to ask him to ensure security for the Jews.  And the khan not only provided security guarantees, but even allocated an area for settlement in the upper part of what is now Krasnaya Sloboda.  To protect the Jews from night-time pogroms and attacks, Fatali khan resettled them in 1765 to the area where they live to this day.  All the court officials were involved in this matter, the khan allocating the palace's transport for this purpose, and the Jews settled in the new area just six days later.  There is a synagogue now in the place where the Jews welcomed Fatali khan.

Krasnaya Sloboda is often compared to Las Vegas.  Residents of the village are mainly engaged in trade.  The locals have extravagant tastes and the wealthy areas of Quba feature grand, beautiful villas.  To draw a full picture, we will add that you can meet 15-16-year-old youths here who drive Ferraris and Mercedes.

The Tat

The Tat ethnic group arrived in Azerbaijan about 1,400 years ago and settled in the country's north-west.  They live in the mountainous areas of Quba District and have a modest life style.  They include three religious groups - Muslims, Christians and Jews.  The differences in faith resulted in differences in languages.  Their total number is about 20,000.

The word "Tat" appears in written sources of the 8th century - Orkhono-Yenisey writings and the epic Dede Gurgud.

In the second volume of Mahmud Kashgari's "Divan," the word "Tat" is interpreted in the following manner:  "'Tat' is a name for everyone who speaks Persian to Turks and for Uygur kaffirs (non-Muslims).  I have heard this in their country.  This word is used not only for Persians, but also for the Chinese and Uygur.  This is what the word means."  In Turkic sources, the word "Tat" occurs quite frequently.  Turks have always called other peoples who arrive in their lands the "Tat."

The village of Zarqava

This Tat village with a unique landscape is famous for its folklore.  The tune "Zarqava" is especially well-liked here - the local virtuoso on wind instruments, Ibrahim Kisi, performs it on the zurna (an ancient Azerbaijani wind instrument).  As we listened to Ibrahim Kisi's performance, we saw the bread being baked in a tendir oven in the courtyard.  The local home-baked bread is different from that which you can buy in stores.  It is softer, and is decorated with different designs.

When Ibrahim Kisi stopped playing, he caught a hen to make certain that we would not leave without tasting the Tat cigirtma - chicken roasted in a special sauce.  It has to be said that the villagers are very hospitable - they will not let you leave without feeding you first.

Quba paxlava

There is a confectioner's on almost every street in Quba, where they make the famous Quba sweets - paxlava and bukma.  The majority of the confectioner's are situated right in the yards of private homes.  And although the local paxlava looks similar to what you find in Baku, it has a different taste.  First they make the filling of ground walnuts mixed with sugar.  Then they make the dough with rice flour and water.  The very thin layers of rolled dough - yuxa, which Quba residents call "paxlava aristesi," are stacked.  There should be about 40-50 yuxa.  Filling is added generously between some of the layers.  The upper layer is painted red, cut into rhomboid shapes and embellished with the kernel of a walnut.  The paxlava is then covered with a lid and put into the oven.  Finally the paxlava is steeped in a sherbet, made with water, sugar and various spices.  In a few hours' time, the paxlava absorbs, softens and is ready to be served.

Quba bukma

Bukma is made with the same ingredients, but its shape is different.  The arishte for paxlava is folded over, filled with filling, rolled into a tube shape and roasted.  This is bukma.  So, acquaintance with the city begins with sweets.  The locals believe that they even make conversations sweeter.

Tourist's paradise

The Quba District is famous for its beautiful, natural landscapes.  It is the centre of the northern tourist zone, where tourist routes are organized.

Quba - Krasnaya Sloboda - Long Forest (15 km)

The last stop on the shortest route is Uzun Mesna (Long Forest).  The forest is so called because it stretches wide, but is not long.  The village of the same name and a tourist centre are situated in the area.  This is one of the most popular recreational areas in Quba, having been open since 1999.  The owner is a Scottish entrepreneur.  The area is good for winter holidays too, but you must reserve a room, so that they can heat it up by your arrival (the temperature at night can be as low as -10 to -14 centigrade) and cook your food.  The vistas, which are beautiful in all seasons, and the intoxicating air of Uzun mesa make the place well worth visiting

Guba-Tangaalti (65 kilometers)

This universally appreciated area hosts the village of Tangaalti, which means "between the mountains."  The Valvalacay river flows between the two peaks on the northern slope of the Greater Caucasus Ridge.  White, black and pink granite can be found in these mountains.  The depth of the ravine where the river flows is 400-600 metres and the steep slopes are formed from white, black and pink marble.  This is indeed a rare natural phenomenon.  The fascination of the village of Tangaalti nearby is made even greater by the road which runs between two steep cliffs hanging over it and the river which runs through the forest.  And although the "fugitive Mayil's cave" amid the insurmountable cliffs does attract many people, only professional climbers can reach it.

Waterfalls

There are many waterfalls in the area.  Suatan is the first one on the road to the Tanga valley and the smallest in the area.  And the best known - Afurca - is situated a few kilometres from the valley.  Do visit the village of Afuca, 42 kilometres from the city.  The rocky waterfall nearby is 70 metres high.  It is quite frightening to be under the arch of hanging cliffs....

In the tea house near the waterfall, you can taste tea made with herbs collected in the mountains and forests around, and its taste and aroma relieve both fear and fatigue.

The Qonaqkend-Xaltan-Qarxun road passes nearby, and the northern route to the Babadag peak (3,629 metres above sea level) also starts here.

Quba-Xaltan village-Istisu (80 kilometres)

This route takes one day.  This is why we woke early in the morning and set out in our jeep.

The wonderful landscapes along the route and endless forests alternate with the ruins of empty villages and old abandoned graveyards....  Residents of Quba say that these were bustling villages as recently as the early 20 century.  But the absence of electricity, gas, water supply and decent roads led to the gradual departure of the residents to cities.

The village of Xaltan is the last populated area in Quba district along this route.  Only a very few families live in the village.  In a forest near the village, in the valley of the Carxacu river, there are more than 30 hot springs with temperatures of 40-500 and 36-380 at an altitude of 780 metres above sea level.  The mineral water from these springs cures many diseases - cardiovascular, neurological and musculoskeletal disorders, chronic intoxication, atherosclerosis, haemorrhoids, hepatitis, pancreatitis, encephalitis, gastrointestinal disorders and many others.

There are also thermal and cold springs with high concentrations of sulphur, nitrogen and oxygen.

Istisu - natural baths

Although they are only 10 kilometres from the village, the trip to the springs takes 2-3 hours because there is no road as such.  You will not see anyone oranything on the way - there are no people, animals or birds.  Cell phones do not work there.  The silence is deafening.

The view at the end of the journey is surprising.  There is a small tent camp there, where people from the nearby districts, who come here for medical treatment, live for 40 days in total isolation from civilization.

The hot springs with water rich in different chemicals have been known for centuries.  They are situated at an altitude of 1,500-1,800 metres above sea level.  Over time, the water has carved out natural bath tubs in the rocks.  Two of them are quite large.  One is used by men, and the other - by women.  They say that there are many tubs like these here, but the majority are even higher up in the mountains and getting there can be dangerous.

The Pirakakil baba shrine

From time immemorial, people have believed that this area of medicinal springs has magical powers which can cure all diseases.  It was customary to worship the Creator here.  At some periods they go to shrines, called "pir", and pray there.  Women come here to ask Pirakakil baba to cure their infertility.  Custom requires them to make a wish and to crawl through a narrow tunnel 15-20 metres long.  The wishes of those who can do this will be granted.  However, many people get stuck in the narrow passage full of insects and even snakes, and then the rest form a chain to pull them out.

The Quba District is an area with many places of this sort.  These customs are ancient, much older than Islam.  Every pir has its purpose.  The village of Pirvahid alone has seven shrines.  One of them is call Pir Banovsa.  Girls go there during the Novruz Bayrami festivities to ask the Almighty for marriage by the next Novruz.  They say that young men from neighbouring villages come here too, to choose a bride.

Quba-Gacres-Minaret (25 kilometres)

This is the most popular recreational area in the Quba District.  Gacres means "come and sit down."  The name is also said to mean a "place where sunshine does not reach."  Trees grow so densely here that the sun cannot reach the ground, and it is quite cool even in summer.

Village of Qimil

This mountain village is situated in a recreational area running parallel to the Gacres area, on the other side of the forest.  It is considered one of the centres of carpet-making in the district.  The kolkhoz system introduced in the Soviet period and the absence of exports resulted in the decline in this beautiful craft.  However, people continued to weave carpets, mostly for dowries.  But price increases and a growing interest in hand-made carpets in recent years has helped to revive the ancient craft in the mountain villages.

Carpets of Quba

The Cici, Aqgul and Pirabadil carpets from Quba District are among the best in Azerbaijan.  The Qollu Cici carpet, which was made in 1712, is currently exhibited in the Metropolitan Museum in New York.  There are seven styles of carpet weaving in Azerbaijan, which are distinguished by their geographical location, design, composition, colours and weaving techniques.  Every completed carpet is unique, every loop has its own name and significance, every carpet has individuality.

Although carpets are woven in the majority of homes in Qimil, those who want to buy them might be disappointed because carpets are made only to advance order.  Thus those of our readers who want to buy a carpet are better going to the carpet centres in the district.

The only minaret

The length of this natural monument, which was created when the Gudyalcay split a huge rock, is 30-35 metres, width - 4-5 metres, and it is 3-4 metres high.  It can be found at the very end of the Gacres recreational area and is the farthest point of the route.  It is thought to have been created in the 4th century as a result of tectonic shifts and erosion.  The minaret also plays the role of a natural bridge, and the gap between the cliffs at a height of 10-15 metres is called the "refrigerator."  Indeed, it is so cold here that the owners of the restaurant nearby have attached a door with a padlock and actually use the gap as a refrigerator.

So, if you find yourself in Quba, even in the hottest of the summers, you should not worry about the absence of air-conditioning or refrigerator.  This is the best choice for those who want to escape the summer heat and take a break out in the country.